The Raisin Industry: A practical treatise on the raisin grapes, their history, culture and curingEisen, Gustavus A.
History
The Raisin Industry: A practical treatise on the raisin grapes, their history, culture and curing
Eisen, Gustavus A.
Raisins; Viticulture -- California
_Transporting Cuttings to Distant Parts._--When cuttings are to be
shipped any distance, they must be packed. The simplest method of
packing for short distances is to fill the bottom of a sack with wet
straw, and then slip the bundle of cuttings down in the sack, and a
single string will then suffice to secure the sack to the bundle. Packed
this way, cuttings can stand a voyage of a week or more if the weather
is not too hot. If a longer voyage, of say several weeks’ duration, is
necessary, the cuttings should be packed in dry-goods boxes, and, if the
time of transit is not too long, no other packing is needed. If,
however, a very long transit is in view, more precautions for the safe
arrival of the cuttings are required. After the bundles have been
pressed down in the box, moist and fresh moss is packed tightly down all
along the sides of the box. Such packing will keep the cuttings fresh
for over a month. For a longer time, coarse, pulverized charcoal filled
in between the cuttings is a splendid packing. The charcoal must be dry,
the moisture in the cuttings being enough to keep them alive for several
months. Packed first in tin boxes surrounded by charcoal, and then the
boxes soldered tightly, so as to allow no air to enter, is the safest
method for transporting cuttings long distances. If there is a
possibility to repack at certain stations on the road, wooden boxes may
be used instead of tin. The waxing of the ends of the cuttings will help
to keep them moist. All lumber boxes should be lined with waxed paper,
and all cracks carefully nailed up, as by the drying of the boards the
contents are very liable to run out. Large and heavy boxes should be
surrounded by iron bands.
_Rooting Cuttings._--There are two ways of planting cuttings in the
nursery in order to have them rooted for next season’s planting. One way
is to plant in nursery rows four feet apart; the other is to set in
beds. For such nursery, a plat of land with rich soil and with good
water facilities should be selected. Water should never fail in the
nursery, as cuttings always require more water than old plants set
farther apart. The rows should be staked out four feet from each other.
Six or eight inch cuttings should be used, according to the depth to
moisture; the more moisture, the shorter need be the cuttings. With a
big, flat hoe the soil along the line of the row is thrown up on one
side, the cuttings are set down upright close to the perpendicular
side, and the soil is again raked back with the same kind of hoe, and
then tamped hard around the cuttings. The latter need not be over two or
three inches apart, and from forty to fifty thousand may be set on one
acre of ground. In no instance should the cutting be left more than one
or two inches above the surface of the ground. The best instrument or
tool for opening the soil and for covering the cuttings is the large
flat-faced Italian hoe, used by Italian workmen both in Europe and in
this country.
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