_Time for Grafting Raisin-vines._--The best time for grafting grapevines, as well as for grafting anything else, is when the stock on which we graft has its sap in circulation, and when the scions or cuttings which we are to insert in the stock are yet dormant. This time occurs from the middle of January, when the sap first rises in the old vine, and continues to March or even April, February and March being generally the months best suited to the work. Grafting may also be done in the fall of the year after the grape crop has been gathered, while some growers have best succeeded still earlier, and advocate the month of August as being the most favorable time for this process. The sap at that time ceases flowing, and there is no danger of its being clogged. Grapevines can be grafted at almost any time of the year at which the weather is not too warm, as this will cause the cuttings to bud out before they have joined the stock. If grafting on resistant stocks is desired, the stocks, if small, must first be dug, and the grafting can then be performed in the workshop any time between December and March, the early winter months being preferable. _Points to be Observed in Grafting._--The main object in grafting is to properly join the scions and the stock. The point of junction should be the cambium layer, or what is commonly called the inner bark. If a cutting of a vine is cut off smoothly and placed in the ground, the callus soon begins to form at the lower end. This callus, which is seen to exude from the green layer between the hard wood and the bark, is fed by the sap in the cutting descending through the cambium layer and forming new cells at its free end. If this callus joins a similar callus of the cambium or green layer of the stock, the two calluses unite and form together a new vine, in which the top consists of the new scion and the root of the old vine. The junction of the two is the place where the cambium surface of the scion met the cambium of the stock. In the scions, the cambium lies very close to the exterior layer of the cutting, the bark here being very thin, while in the old stock the cambium is situated many times deeper in, the outer layer or the bark being very thick. It is not necessary that the cambium layers of the two should meet or join all along the cut surface, and a few points of contact and junction is sufficient, although it is better to have as large a junction surface as possible. If the two cambium layers do not meet, the scion will not grow, or, as it is called, take. The scions must be dormant when being grafted, and, if their buds have begun to swell, they will probably not take, or at least success is less certain. In order to keep them dormant they should be cut early in winter, and then be buried in cool and only slightly moist earth, either in a cellar or on the north side of a house, where the sun and heat will not strike them and cause them to start their buds. If the callus should form, or