This is the great San Joaquin valley, the fertile center of California. Of the much spoken of irrigation of California, we see almost nothing; the land is dry and thirsty, the soil is loose, and the engine forces the dust in a cloud before us. Nothing green is seen anywhere except a few scattered trees far, far apart. Here and there we pass a little town with wooden houses and dusty streets, with wooden churches whose spires do not pierce the sky. We cross many streams, several of which are dry, or have sluggish waters, while some wind their way down the valley between banks covered with willows and cottonwoods. Yet there is something grand in this immense stretch of open, level country, with its frame of snowy mountains, with its fertile fields waiting for the winter’s rain or irrigating ditch to produce abundantly of almost anything that can be grown in any temperate country in the world. The numerous grain stacks speak of the fertility of the soil and of abundant harvests, while the vegetation along the rivers indicates that water is all that is needed to make this large valley like a fruitful garden. We have passed Lathrop and Modesto and numerous smaller stations between; the picture is everywhere the same. At Atwater we met the first signs of irrigation, and saw young vineyards and orchards on either side, and as we approach Merced we pass large irrigating ditches flowing with water, and in the distance many houses and farms. The country is getting greener, and the deep color of the soil is a sign that it is rich and fertile. At Merced there is a Yosemite air. The large El Capitan Hotel stands out like a landmark, and the garden with its flowers and shade trees, and the marble fountain with its rippling waters, speak loudly of beauty and refinement. Close to Merced are situated some of the new promising colonies which are making raisin-growing one of their specialties, and in whatever direction we look we see signs of such new enterprises, all young, of course, as irrigation has only lately been brought in here, where no dense settlements could exist without it. Much of the land is yet held in very large tracts, but they are being rapidly subdivided and sold out to actual settlers as fast as there is any demand for them. To our right lies a splendid body of perfectly level land occupied by the Yosemite Colony with many settlers already on the land, whose new and cosy cottages mark their future homes.