The railway journey from Capetown to Johannesburg of about three days is
through a seemingly endless sandy country, with range succeeding range
of distant mountains, all alike, and strikes a greater sense of vastness
and desolation than an expanse of naked ocean itself. First and second
class have sleeping accommodation, the third being kept for blacks and
the lowest class Dutch. Well, we reach Johannesburg, which has not even
yet, with all its wealth, a covered-in railway station; whilst by way of
contrast in the progress of the place, just across the road is a huge
club, with tennis, cricket, football, and cycling grounds, gymnasium,
military band, halls for dancing, operas, and oratorios, &c., which will
bear comparison with any you please. Its members are millionaires and
clerks, lodgers and their lodging-house keepers, all equal there; for
we have left behind caste, cliques, and cathedral cities, and are
cosmopolitan, or, in a word, colonial. An institution like this gives us
the state of society there in a nutshell, for, as wages are very high,
any one in anything like lucrative employment can belong to it; and the
grades in society are determined by money, and money only.
Johannesburg, the London of South Africa, which was a barren veldt
previous to 1886, is now the centre of some one hundred thousand
inhabitants, and increasing about as fast as bricks and mortar can be
obtained. It is situated directly on top of the gold, and on looking
down from the high ground above, it looks to an English eye like a huge,
long-drawn-out mass of tin sheds, with its painted iron mine-chimneys
running in a straight line all along the quartz gold-reef as far as you
can see in either direction. The largest or main reef runs for thirty
miles uninterruptedly, gold-bearing and honeycombed with mines
throughout. This, even were it alone, could speak for the stability and
continued prosperity of the Transvaal gold trade. In a mail-steamer
arriving from the Cape there is sometimes as much as between £300,000
and £400,000 worth of gold, and the newspapers show that usually about
£100,000 worth is consigned by each mail-boat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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