As we enter the town we find fine and well-planned streets, crossed at
places with deep gutters--gullies rather--to carry off the water, which
is often in the heavy summer rains deeper than your knees. Crossing
these at fast trot, the driver never drawing rein, the novice is shot
about, in his white-covered two-wheeled cab with its large springs, like
a pea in a bladder. Indeed, one marvels at the daintily dressed
_habitué_ of the place being swung through similarly, quite unconcerned,
and without rumpling a frill. We pass fine public buildings, very high
houses and shops--somewhat jerry-built, it is true--but now being added
to, or replaced by larger and more solid buildings. Indeed, bricks
cannot be made fast enough for the demand, both there and in some of the
outlying Transvaal towns where the 'gold boom' is on. There are lofty
and handsome shops, with most costly contents, which can vie with London
or Paris.
Let us watch from the high-raised stoep outside the Post-office, looking
down over the huge market-square. What strikes us first are the
two-wheeled two-horse cabs with white hoods, recklessly driven by Malays
in the inseparable red fez, and these with the fast-trotting mule or
horse wagons show the pace at which business or pleasure is followed. As
a contrast comes the lumbering ox-wagon with ten or twelve span of oxen,
a little Kaffir boy dragging and directing the leading couple by a thong
round the horns, and the unamiable Dutch farmer revolving around,
swearing, and using his fifteen-foot whip to keep the concern in motion
at all. Then passes a body of some two hundred prisoners, Kaffirs, and a
few whites leading, marched in fours by some dozen white-helmeted police
and four or five mounted men, all paraded through the main streets,
innocent and guilty alike, to the court-house, and many escaping _en
route_ as occasion offers. Well-dressed English men of business, and
professional men, women in handsome and dainty costumes, hustle Jews of
all degrees of wealth; carelessly dressed miners, and chaps in rags come
in from prospecting or up-country, with the Dutchman everywhere in his
greasy soft felt and blue tattered puggaree, Chinese shopkeepers,
Italians, Poles, Germans; whilst outside in the roadways flows a
continual stream of Kaffirs in hats and cast-off clothing of every sort
imagination can picture, who are not allowed by law to walk upon the
pavement.
GOLD-FIELDS OF COOLGARDIE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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