1884-5—By rail to Ft. Wingate, New Mexico. By rail to Flagstaff. To Flagstaff _via_ circuit of, and summit of, San Francisco Mountain and the Turkey Tanks. By rail to the Needles, California. By rail to Manuelito, New Mexico. To Ft. Defiance. By buckboard to Keam’s Canyon. To the East Mesa of the Moki. To Keam’s Canyon. By buckboard _via_ Pueblo, Colorado, to Ft. Defiance. To the San Juan River at the “Four Corners,” _via_ Lukachukai Pass and the summit of the Carisso Mountains. To Ft. Defiance _via_ the crest of the Tunicha Plateau. By buckboard to Keam’s and to the East Mesa of the Moki. To Mishongnuvi and back. By waggon to Keam’s. To Oraibe _via_ Tewa. To Keam’s _via_ Shimopavi and Tewa. To Holbrook by buckboard. 1899—By rail west across Green River Valley. By rail down Price River, east across Gunnison Valley, up Grand River, and over the Continental Divide. 1903—By rail to Salt Lake. By rail to Modena. By horse up the Virgen River to the narrows of Mukoontuweap. Thence _via_ Rockville and Short Creek to Pipe Springs and Kanab. Thence to De Motte Park, Bright Angel Spring, and Greenland Point at the Grand Canyon on the Kaibab Plateau. Thence to Kanab, Panquitch, and Marysvale. Thence by rail to Salt Lake. 1907—By rail to Grand Canyon, Arizona. By horse to Bass Camp, to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, opposite Shinumo Creek, to Habasu Canyon, to Grand Canyon Station, and to Grand View. By rail to the Needles. THE ROMANCE OF THE COLORADO RIVER CHAPTER I. The Secret of the Gulf—Ulloa, 1539, One of the Captains of Cortes, Almost Solves it, but Turns Back without Discovering—Alarçon, 1540, Conquers. In every country the great, rivers have presented attractive pathways for interior exploration—gateways for settlement. Eventually they have grown to be highroads where the rich cargoes of development, profiting by favouring tides, floated to the outer world. Man, during all his wanderings in the struggle for subsistence, has universally found them his friends and allies. They have yielded to him as a conquering stranger; they have at last become for him foster-parents. Their verdant banks have sheltered and protected him; their skies have smiled upon his crops. With grateful memories, therefore, is clothed for us the sound of such river names as Thames, Danube, Hudson, Mississippi. Through the centuries their kindly waters have borne down ancestral argosies of profit without number, establishing thus the wealth and happiness of the people. Well have rivers been termed the “Arteries of Commerce”; well, also, may they be considered the binding links of civilisation. In Glen Canyon. In Glen Canyon. Walls of homogeneous sandstone 1000 feet high. Photograph by J. FENNEMORE, U.S. Colorado River Expedition.