So we glide slowly and smoothly through the south-eastern portion of
the Land of Fens, which, so far, greatly resembles the Russia we have
just left; and if we look out for one of the thousand lakes we do not
see it, and shall not until Wiborg itself is reached; though, as it
happens, I know of several further inland--old familiar places where
in former days I have angled for many large perch and pike, killed
many a duck, missed many a snipe, enjoyed many a happy hour. It is hot
with all the closeness of the Russian July; but, fortunately, this is
the Finnish and not a Russian railway, and though we manufacture a
delightful draught by opening the windows on both sides of the
carriage, we are not threatened for this reason with the terrors and
tortures to which those are subjected who infringe the bye-laws of the
company. It was but a few days before that, travelling upon a Russian
line, and feeling asphyxiated by the heat of the carriage, I had, in
my innocence, let down the windows on both sides. Instantly a guard
rushed up and closed one, that on the side from which the
infinitesimal air that existed happened to be blowing. I protested.
The guard expressed horror: there would be a draught, he explained. I
hastened to assure him that that was exactly what I most wished to
bring about, and made as though to reopen the window which he had
closed. But this the guard would not permit. I should catch cold, he
said, and the company could not dream of allowing their passengers to
catch cold. I argued, I entreated, but in vain, and eventually I went
to stand upon the balcony outside. But, alas! this also, it appeared,
was not permissible just at present, and that for a peculiar reason: a
train conveying some member of the Imperial family was to meet us
presently, and no man might stand outside until it had safely passed.
In the end I was compelled to return to the stifling carriage, wherein
I was cooked to a turn by the time I reached my destination.
But if the train from St. Petersburg to Wiborg is slow, what shall be
said of that from the latter place to Imatra? Yet why, after all,
should anything be said? There was no hardship in travelling now, for
it was evening and cooler, and the country had grown more
characteristically Finnish. Here and there were small lakes, the
outposts of the thousand, the ten thousand, that lay calm and majestic
somewhere beyond. We were in Finland now beyond a doubt.
But C. G. has a surprise for me--for me who have never been in this
part of the world before--have never even seen Imatra. We shall be at
a station called St. Andrea soon, he tells me, and then I shall see
something which will interest me. What? I am to wait; it shall burst
upon my sight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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