The Rulers of the MediterraneanDavis, Richard Harding
History
The Rulers of the Mediterranean
Davis, Richard Harding
Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
When you hear a man on the stage say that, you can make up your mind
that he is going to Tangier. It may be that he goes there with somebody
else's money, or somebody else's wife, or that he has had trouble with a
check; or, as in the case of one young man who was feted and dined
there, had robbed a diamond store in Brooklyn, and is now in Sing Sing;
or, as in the case of a recent American consul, had sold his protection
for two hundred dollars to any one who wanted it, and was recalled under
several clouds. And you hear stories of ministers who retire after
receiving an income of a few hundred pounds a year with two hundred
thousand dollars they have saved out of it, and of cruelty and bursts of
sudden passion that would undoubtedly cause a lynching in the chivalric
and civilized states of Alabama or Tennessee. And so when I heard why
several of the people of Tangier had come there, and why they did not
go away again, I began to feel that the barbarian, whose forefathers
swept Spain and terrorized the whole of Catholic Europe, had more reason
than he knew for despising the Christian who is waiting to give to his
country the benefits of civilization.
Tangier's beauty lies in so many different things--in the monk-like garb
of the men and in the white muffled figures of the women; in the
brilliancy of its sky, and of the sea dashing upon the rocks and
tossing the feluccas with their three-cornered sails from side to side;
and in the green towers of the mosques, and the listless leaves of the
royal palms rising from the centre of a mass of white roofs; and, above
all, in the color and movement of the bazars and streets. The streets
represent absolute equality. They are at the widest but three yards
across, and every one pushes, and apparently every one has something to
sell, or at least something to say, for they all talk and shout at once,
and cry at their donkeys or abuse whoever touches them. A water-carrier,
with his goat-skin bag on his back and his finger on the tube through
which the water comes, jostles you on one side, and a slave as black and
shiny as a patent-leather boot shoves you on the other as he makes way
for his master on a fine white Arabian horse with brilliant trappings
and a huge contempt for the donkeys in his way. It is worth going to
Tangier if for no other reason than to see a slave, and to grasp the
fact that he costs anywhere from a hundred to five hundred dollars. To
the older generation this may not seem worth while, but to the present
generation--those of it who were born after Richmond was taken--it is a
new and momentous sensation to look at a man as fine and stalwart and
human as one of your own people, and feel that he cannot strike for
higher wages, or even serve as a parlor-car porter or own a barbershop,
but must work out for life the two hundred dollars his owner paid for
him at Fez.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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