To some extent, incidentally, their use and commercial value depends on
their condition and flavor. An alewife’s flesh is best when it has been
taken directly out of salt water. The ocean flavor is progressively
lost as the fish migrates through inland streams. So they have their
highest value where the runs are located close to the sea, or tidal
rivers such as the one at Damariscotta, Maine.
The West Indies trade is over, as well as the days of “good salt
herring.” The most likely place to see indications of alewife now is
on the stupendously bountiful shelves of a chain store, in the form of
a can with a picture of a cat on it. And the future of the alewife, in
human hands at least, seems to depend on a wider demand for it. It is
valued neither for sport nor edibility, but is used for cat and dog
food, fish meal, and pickled fish, with some, as at Brewster, being
taken for lobster bait. Apparently there is an innate prejudice among
some New Englanders against using a traditional food fish for other
purposes, and a belief that selling it for meal or cat food is less
profitable. Put this down to thrift, or respect for old ways, still it
stands against the fact that the alewife’s latest value comes from its
status as a processed, rather than edible, food. “Reduction” is what
they call it when the alewives are turned into fish meal, and in a
sense perhaps they have been reduced, at least in our personal esteem.
They now belong to a technical age with the rest of us.
With modern methods of handling, packing, and transportation the old
fisheries may have been left behind, but it should be said that,
because of its new status in commerce, ignominious or not, the alewife
may stand a better chance. The State of Maine, for example, has been
undertaking thorough study of the alewives in order to find out how old
runs can be brought back, or new ones created. They are a fish that
are very responsive to management. When barriers are removed and open
fishways are made, they take their opportunity.
All is not well with the traditional ways, though the alewives may be
perfectly ready to go beyond them. In the old days on Cape Cod there
was hardly a seafaring man who did not take his salt herring aboard
with him, and on land, after being salted, dried in the sun, and
smoked, they were strung on sticks and sold for ten cents a stick.
There were many smokehouses on the Cape, and in the wintertime dried
fish hung on the barn rafters above the haylofts. I have a comment on
those days from Mr. Alexander: “None of your First National Stores
then,” said he. “We lived off the earth ... potatoes and smoked
herrin’. That’s why some of us old goats lived so long.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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