China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
The dog barks in the yard, but without the menace which hailed us, and
the crunch of a horse’s hoofs sounds on the frozen ground outside. The
flap opens, with its inrush of freezing air. Stooping, there enters a
typical Mongol, squat of figure, round of head, with broad sunbrowned
face and a short queue of black hair. He wears a funnel-shaped hat,
magenta-colored, and is enveloped in a long _shuba_, with brass buttons
down one side like a fencer’s jacket. About his waist is a sash with
jingling knives and pouches. He is the head of the family, come in from
herding his horses. He turns back the long fur-lined cuffs which have
protected his gloveless hands, and stretches out both his arms for you
to place your hands over his. It is the man’s ceremony of welcome. Then
he produces a little porcelain snuff-bottle. This must be received
in the palm of the right hand with a bow. It is to be utilized, and
passed back. If the herder is out of snuff, the bottle is offered just
the same and you must appreciatively pretend to take a pinch. Such is
etiquette.
The soup is gone now; the pot, cleaned out for the tea, is again on the
boil and the leaves are thrown in. André has borrowed a hatchet from
his host, and has chopped off a piece of milk, which goes in as well.
It is in order to ask the new arrival, Subadar Jay, to pass his
wooden cup for some of the beverage. He takes it and the lumps of
sugar without a word of thanks. The Mongol language has no expression
to signify gratitude. Silence does not, however, mean that he does
not appreciate. The dozen pieces of Mongol sandal-sole bread which
he gives you later are worth two bricks of tea in open market, and
this current medium of exchange--caravan-brought tea--is worth sixty
kopecks the brick. No small gift, this bread, to an interloping
stranger who is brewing tea by his fire, and camping unasked on his
bed. A Tibet-schooled lama knows the Buddhist maxim, “Only accomplish
good deed, ask no reward.” But the unlettered Mongol layman knows its
practice.
Little Turunga has played naked before the fire long enough now; she
is caught up; her reluctant feet are put into the boots with pointed
upturned toes, and her body into a miniature sheepskin “daily,” such as
her mother and father wear. The little girl is as smiling and shy and
coquettish as any child of white skin and complex clothes.
“Will you sell Turunga for a brick of tea?”
“No, no,” says the mother, gathering the little one quickly up into
her arms, while the rest of the family smile at the offer and her
solicitude. “No, no, not even for ten bricks!”
Everybody laughs, Turunga with the rest, in a child’s instinctive
knowledge that she is the centre of admiring attraction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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