China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
Your station is in darkness, but just the other side of the curtain
are the lamas, and their apartment is lighted by windows. Two rows of
benches extend the length of their chamber, leaving an aisle between
them, reaching from the door to the altar. A score of priests in yellow
robes, with red sashes slung tartan-fashion over a shoulder, are
sitting on these seats facing each other. They are ranged evidently
in the order of their ages. Two old _giluns_, fluent in the Tibetan
litany, sit next the altar. Then come younger lamas, the _gitzul_, not
yet full priests. Finally next to the door are _bandi_, ten or twelve
years old, intense in youthful delight that their part in the ceremony
is to pound as lustily as they can the big prayer-drums. The service
begins with the chanting of a ritual in form not unlike the Slavonic
litanies of Siberia. At appointed times it is necessary to call the
god’s attention to the fact that something is going on in his honor.
At once a most deafening clamor begins. The small boy with a drum is
drowned out by his big brother, further up the line, who officiates
upon a huge wooden cornet, and by his uncle with the conch-shell or
the cymbals. The droning of prayers is like the buzz of hiving bees.
There seem to be no responses, but all of them read together. Presently
comes a sudden clamor, almost like a fire-alarm; then the crash and the
droning suddenly cease.
“It is over!” says the guide.
The lamas file out by a further door, and we tiptoe in to inspect the
holy of holies at the heart of the great lama sanctuary. In the dimness
one sees first before him the table for offerings, on which are the two
main sacerdotal instruments,--a silver bell and a silver handle like a
carving-knife-rest,--and row after row of targets made of dough-paste,
of brass cups filled with oil to serve the tapers, of millet, rice,
currants. Behind this altar, towering far up into the hollow of the
dome, is the bronze colossus of the smiling Buddha, Maidari, the Future
God.
Fifty feet in height, the figure is, cross-legged, with open, painted
eyes. From Buddha’s hands hang long silken streamers. One of very fine
quality is embroidered with the ten thousand gods.
“This,” the priest whispers, “is a present from the Dalai Lama.”
A great festival takes place in summer in honor of this god, who will
rule a myriad years hence, when the race of giants descends to kill
mankind and to people the earth with their own kindred. The Gigin’s
elephant is brought out, and he himself takes the lesser dignity of a
carriage in deference to Maidari. Even the gods of the present must
honor the gods of the future.
The Gigin’s throne is to the left of the statue. It has triple silk
cushions. Around are twelve colossi of Buddha, some ten feet in height,
and entirely gilt save for the red lips and the eyes. The hands are
held in differing positions, folded, outstretched, pointing. Here and
there a silk scroll is hung.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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