China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
The walls of the sanctuary are lined with shelves like a book-store,
and these are loaded with statuettes of the ten thousand gods.
We tiptoe back the way we came, and are soon in the street of the
monastery. The uncle has seen us safely away. We betake our route from
the Mongol toward the Russian section.
“You saw the throne cushion of Dalai Lama?” the wool-merchant asks.
“They have put it back now. Gigin kicked it out of the temple when
Dalai Lama left. The Angleski drove Dalai Lama from Lhasa, and he came
to Urga to visit Gigin, because here is the second great Buddhist holy
place. Now Dalai Lama is very monkish, very austere, and always prays
and fasts. But our Gigin”--here follows another expansive smile--“Gigin
rode out with his Council, the _shabniars_, and took some of Pokrin’s
best champagne in the cart, for they would not have it in Lhasa.
Dalai Lama was very stiff. Gigin asked him, ‘Have a drink!’ Dalai did
not understand, for drink is forbidden. Then he asked him again, and
Dalai Lama refused rebukingly. They came to Gigin’s palace at the
foot of the Holy Mountain, which is built like the Russian consulate.
After the prostrations, Gigin said to Dalai that he had come far and
few women were on the road and those mostly old and ugly. Dalai Lama
refused that too. Cigarettes and snuff, and canned tomatoes he offered,
but Dalai Lama refused them all. Then, in the Assembly of the Lamas,
Dalai rebuked Gigin, and made him sit below his servants in penalty,
for Dalai Lama is more of a god than Gigin. All the pilgrims came to
offer gifts to Dalai Lama, and Gigin did not get his. For months Dalai
Lama stayed here. Afterwards he went away to China. Gigin came to
this temple then and kicked Dalai Lama’s throne, throwing it down. He
celebrated in the summer palace when Dalai Lama left, for he was very
happy.”
* * * * *
Mongol Urga is left behind, and we reënter the Russian town. A hail
from one of the passers-by is not long delayed. “Will you have _chai_?”
he questions. He is an alert-looking Russian, smartly clad in a _shuba_
of green leather trimmed with sable.
“Must we eat any more dinners to-day?” we inquire.
“Only tea,” is the reply. It is not quite reassuring.
“That is Pokrin, the one that sells to the Gigin,” the wool-merchant
whispers. “Go with him: he can tell you some tales.”
Obviously one must not miss the acquaintanceship of this modern
Ganymede, cup-bearer of the many-bubbled French nectar and jugged
ambrosia; so on we march to his compound.
Pokrin was on his way to a business appointment; but no rendezvous will
interfere with prospective _chai_. He hangs his coat back on its peg,
bids his wife start up the samovar, and produces the vodka-bottle. Yes,
his family is very well, and he is very busy buying hides. We talk up
and down and roundabout numberless themes, and at last venture: “The
Gigin!”
“Ah, the Gigin was here to see me only a week ago.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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