China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
This week there can be no buying or selling. The Moon must be honored,
but visits are in order. Your friend brings you to meet a leading
Chinese merchant. At the house, a grille of thick wooden bars runs
down to the street level from the eaves just above one’s head. Looking
through them, one can see over the little square window the most
delicately-traced pictures on a white background. The panes are of
paper, all save one, which is of glass, so that the owner may see if,
coming down the street, any one turns and climbs the three steps into
the ordinarily wide-open door of his house.
The home of our host, which is likewise his office, is finely fitted up
and faultlessly clean. His light-blue silk robes are immaculate. Two
servants wait at table, bringing in the best of China tea and French
“petit-beurre” biscuits for our delectation. Everything is appetizing
and orderly.
As we are sitting over the cups with the Chinese merchant, the boy
comes to announce visitors, and two blue-robed fellow countrymen enter.
One has a strip of light-blue silk laid over his two arms, which he
stretches out. The host extends his own arms and receives it, then
gives it back to the newcomer, who goes down on one knee and again
presents it. The merchant takes it a second time and bows, this time
retaining it. The two guests bend and leave the room. “New Year’s
presents,” the merchant explains. Again the boy comes in and announces
a guest. A Mongol messenger enters, goes down on one knee, and presents
a red slip, black-lettered. “Visiting-card,” the host explains. Then,
with a smile, “White, like yours, not polite.” He accepts this too.
“_Ch’ou Ta-tzu!_” (the dirty Tatar!) he says as the latter leaves.
The calls continue, and our visit. The host is charming, cultured,
educated; he speaks English well, and lacks in no attention. But
you wonder if, when you leave, he is not going to murmur about you,
“Yong-kwei-tsz!” (foreign devil!)
Throughout all intercourse with these Chinese, one has always the
uneasy consciousness that one is doubtless, as with the card,
unwittingly offending. There are three hundred rules of ceremony,
three thousand formulæ of behavior, regulated by a classic tradition.
The ritual is so drilled into the Chinese as to become instinctive.
Celestial breeding would dictate that the little formalism which
precedes a rubber, “May I play to hearts, if you please?” be stretched
to cover every action of life. The left, not the right, is the place
of honor, and to enter a room facing wrongly is a slight. An irregular
method of folding a red New-Year’s card, and the failure in writing
to raise one character above the level of the rest, are breaches of
etiquette.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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