China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
A way of adventure and strangeness, where the years turn back, is this
old road of the Golden Horde, leading down past the ancestral homes of
the Turks to the Great Wall.
The Cossack sentries at Kiahta look Chinaward. They have become an
anomaly, this hard-riding, fierce-fighting soldier class. The plow has
metamorphosed into myriad farms the plains along the Don where once
their ponies grazed. Mining-cuts score the hills in the Urals where
once they hunted. Villages of Slavonic peasants rise along the Amur.
The sons of the old warriors grow into peaceful farmer-folk, differing
in name alone from their blue-eyed neighbors. Soon they must disappear
in all save picturesquely uniformed Hussars of the Guard, and as a
memory, chanted by young men and girls in the Siberian summer evenings
when Yermak’s song is raised. The task of the Cossack, to lead in the
conquest of kindred native races and to weld these through themselves
into Russia’s fabric, is nearly done.
Down the ancient road lies a last avenue of advance. Eastward is
Manchuria, where artillery and science grappling must decide the day
with Japan. Southward is India, where England’s guarded gateway among
the hills can be opened only from behind. But into Mongolia Fate may
decree that the yellow-capped Cossacks, drafted from Russia’s Mongol
Buriats, shall lead once more the nation-absorbing march of the White
Czar. For another memorable ride, the Cossacks, who on their shaggy
ponies led the long conquering way across the continent, may yet mount
and take the road to China.
II
THE GREAT SIBERIAN RAILWAY
How long to Irkutsk? Seven days now, seven years when last I
came.” The bearded Russian standing in the doorway of the adjoining
compartment in the corridor-car of the Siberian Express gazes
thoughtfully at the fir-covered slope, whose dark green stands in
sombre contrast to the winter snows. The train is slowly climbing the
Ural Range, toward the granite pyramid near Zlatoust, on opposite
sides of which are graven “Europe” and “Asia.” Neighbors with easy
sociability are conversing along the wide corridors, exchanging stories
and cigarettes, asking each other’s age and income in naïve Siberian
style.
Regarding the burly occupant of the next stateroom one may discreetly
speculate. From sable-lined paletot and massive gold chains you hazard
that he voyaged with the traders’ slow caravans in the days before the
railway--that he was a merchant.
“A merchant? _Optovi?_ No, I did not come with the caravans.”
From the triangle of red lapel-ribbon, the rank-bestowing decoration,
you venture a second guess.
“Perhaps the _gaspadine_ made the great circuit to oversee the local
administrations? He was a government inspector--_Revizor?_”
“_Chinovnik niet navierno_,” he answers. Most decidedly he was not an
official. The suggestion causes him to smile broadly. “I was with the
convicts,” he says.
Beside the line of rails curves the old post-road winding like a ribbon
through the highlands.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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