China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
You rise with the rest, draw on your fur cap and gloves, work into the
heavy fur-lined overcoat, and clamber down to the platform. A little
wooden station-house painted white is opposite the carriage door. It
has projecting eaves and quaint many-paned windows. In front of it is a
post with a large brazen bell. On the big signboard you can spell out
from the Russian letters “Zlatoust.” This is the summit station of the
pass that crosses the Urals. Around are standing stolid sheep-skinned
figures, bearded peasants just in from their sledges, which are ranked
outside the fence. Fur-capped mechanics, carrying wrenches and hammers,
move from car to car to tighten bolts and test wheels for the long
eastward pull. Uniformed station attendants are here and there, some
with files of bills of lading. As you walk down the platform among
the crowd, you come upon a soldier, duffle-coated and muffled in his
capote, standing stoically with fixed bayonet. Forty paces further
there is another, and beyond still another, all the length of the
platform, and far up the line. What a symbol of Russian rule are these
silent sentries! And what a mute tale is told in the necessity for a
guard at every railroad halting-place in the Empire!
You stroll along toward the engine. Huge and box-like are the big steel
cars, five of which compose the train. Two second-class wagons painted
in mustard yellow are rearmost, then come the first-class, painted
black, next the “wagon restoran” and the luggage-van, where the much
advertised and little used bath-room and gymnasium are located. The
engine is a big machine, but of low power, unable to make much speed;
and the high grades and the road-bed, poor in many places, additionally
limit progress. It is apparent why the train rarely moves at a rate
greater than twenty miles an hour.
At first you do not notice the cold. But now that you have walked for
a few minutes along the platform, it seems to gather itself for an
attack, as if it had a personality. You draw erect with tense muscles,
for the system sets itself instinctively on guard. The light breeze
that stirs begins to smart and sting like lashes across the face. The
hand drawn for a moment from the fleece-lined glove, stiffens into
numbed uselessness. As you march rapidly up and down the platform, an
involuntary shiver shakes you from head to foot. A fellow passenger,
remarking it, observes:--
“It is not cold to-day, in fact, quite warm. _Ochen jarko._”
You walk together to the big thermometer that hangs by the
station-door. It is marked with the Réaumur Scale, and your brain is
too torpid for multiplications. But the slightly built official, known
as a government engineer by green-bordered uniform and crossed hammers
on his cap, is inspecting the mercury also.
“Eight degrees below zero Fahrenheit,” he says. “Quite warm for
January. It is often thirty-five degrees below zero here in the Uralsk.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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