China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
He misses a note every now and then, which does not embarrass him in
the least. Caroling gayly to his own accompaniment, he forges ahead.
The crowd in the armchairs around the room, consuming weak tea or
strong beer, and smoking, all join with an untroubled accord and
versatile accents, French, English, and Russian, in the blaring chorus,
“The man that broke the bank at Monte Carlo.”
The train rocks faster on the falling grade; little by little the
mountains drop away; gradually the mighty forests become dwarfed into
scattered clumps of straggly birches, and the great trees dwindle into
bushes; lower and still lower fall the hills, until all is flat. As far
as the eye can see are the snow-covered wastes, treeless, houseless,
lifeless. The lowest foothills of the Urals have been passed. It is the
beginning of the great steppes.
Slowly the daylight wanes. The gray darkness deepens steadily; it
seems to gather in over the gliding snow, and the peculiar gloom of a
Siberian winter’s night closes down. At each track-guard’s post flash
with vivid suddenness the little twinkling lanterns of the wardens of
the road. Involuntarily conversation becomes less animated and voices
are lowered; the spell of the sombreness is over all.
Soon the electric lamps are lighted, and from brazen ikon and sparkling
glasses flash reflections of their glitter. Curtains are drawn,
which shut out the enshrouding blackness. The piano begins tinkling
again; the waiters come and go with tea and liqueurs; the babble of
conversation rises; and the idle laughter is heard anew. Darkness may
be ahead, behind, and beside, but within there is light--enjoy it.
The train slows for a halt. Station-lamps shine mistily through the
brooding night. Lanterns bob to and fro on the platform as fur-capped
train-hands pass, tapping wheels and opening journal-boxes. At each
door a fire-tender is catching and stowing away the wood which a
peasant in padded sheepskins is tossing up from his hand-sled below.
It is Chelliabinsk, whose old importance as the clearing-house of the
convicts has been passed on to the new city of the railroad. Here the
just completed northern branch, linking Perm to Petersburg, meets the
old southern line from Samara and Moscow.
A short stop and the train moves on again. The day is done and
gradually each saunters into his own warm compartment, which the width
of the Russian gauge makes as large as a real room. One can read at
the table by the window, under the electric drop-light, or, propped
in pillows, one can stretch out luxuriously on the easy couch that is
nightly manoeuvred into an upper and lower berth. Practically always
after crossing the Urals, the number of passengers has so thinned out
that each may have a stateroom to himself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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