China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
Gradually, as the train rolls eastward beyond the Ishim River Valley,
the farm country opens out into the unfenced prairie of the Great
Steppe. The clustered wooden villages that flanked the line through
Tobolsk appear less and less frequently, till at last we seem to glide
over an immense white sea, frozen into perpetual calm and silence. Here
and there a gray thicket of stunted trees and bushes, here and there a
grove of naked-limbed birches, mutely exhibit Nature’s desolation.
As the sullen landscape bares itself, one thinks of the prison
caravans tramping these wastes; of the early neglected garrisons which
Elizabeth’s favorite General Kinderman proposed to victual on crushed
birch-bark and relieve the Crown of their expense; of all the misery
and the wrong that the steppes of Siberia have symbolized. No sign
of man’s handiwork or of Nature’s kindliness is seen,--only the cold
snow and the bare birches, while regularly as the ticking of a clock
the telegraph-poles and the verst-spaced stations snap back into the
wastes. The dominant reflection is not, how great is the achievement
which has mastered these steppes! but, how infinitesimal is all that
man has done in this ocean of untrodden snow! Hour after hour we are
driving on. Yet never is there passed a landmark to conjure into
imagination a picture of progress. One moves as in a nightmare, where
he runs for seeming ages, hunted forward, yet can never stir from the
spot. The horizon-bounded circle of vision is as the ever-receding
rim of a giant dome, the rails ahead and behind bisecting its white
immensity. Above, the vast bowl of the blue sky dips and meets it,
imprisoning us. Where are the fields and villages; the bustling
activity of human life that tells of man’s mastership? Hour after
hour passes without a change in the drear monotony of the landscape;
for miles on miles not a trace is seen of human dominion. Grim Nature
spreading her shroud over plain and pasture is despot here, and Winter
is ruler of the Siberian Steppe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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