China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
“One starts to the Yakutsk by the steamer-towed prison barge, following
down the Yenesei from Krasnoyarsk,” the engineer continues. “For the
first thousand versts northward the way is through a mighty forest
region. The interior is almost as unknown as when the Samoieds were
its sole inhabitants. Marshes covered with trembling soil, to be
crossed only on snowshoes, alternate with thickets, called _urmans_, of
larches, cedars, firs, pines, and beeches.”
“It is not alluring,” we observe.
“The cold of the winter seems largely to arrest decay, and the fallen
trees, remaining unrotted, form a nature-made _cheval de frise_,
impossible to traverse save along the hunters’ trails. Another thousand
versts up the Upper Tunguska River, at whose limit of navigation is
a crossing into the Lena System, and the Yakutsk Province begins;
eastward to the coastal range overlooking Behring Sea, and northward
to the Arctic Ocean, a million and a half square miles of desolation,
extends this exiles’ oblast. Prison-stations are located in the
forsaken tundra country beyond the Arctic Circle, where scattered
clumps of creeping birches and dwarf willows struggle to maintain
existence in the few unfrozen upper inches of ground, congealed
perpetually beneath to unmeasured depths. Here, where the average
winter temperature is eighty below zero, come the exiles deemed most
formidable.”
“How long do men last in the Yakutski cold?” we ask the engineer.
“Oh, sometimes a strong man will outlive his sentence and return. The
friends of our strikers ask me sometimes about one or another, but we
have heard nothing of them since they marched away in chains. May fate
keep us from that road!”
The theme is not enlivening, and soon we go forward into the
observation-car.
After crossing the Kan River at Kansk, the railroad turns abruptly
southwest, through the hilly country of the Irkutsk Gobernia, and
climbing into the highlands of the Altai, enters the watershed of the
Angara. The drainage-basin of this river equals the combined areas of
Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. It is as
well adapted to agriculture as parts of the best provinces of Central
Russia in the same latitude.
The train pulls next into the station of Nishneudinsk. A booted
peddler is making his way down the platform, with knives, combs, caps,
and cheap knick-knacks. He stops to show us something special, a
miniature of multicolored minerals, glittering from a hundred crystal
facets. The Russian engineer picks out the flaky quartz, the iron
pyrites,--“fools’ gold,” as they called it in old Nevada times,--green
porphyry, iridescent peacock ore of copper, and some black crystals
like antimony, which show here and there. Malachite, serpentine, topaz,
and numberless other minerals are in the mass, which glitters in
kaleidoscopic changes. A small piece of gold ore tops the pile.
“Cabinetski?” asks the engineer.
“Da, da,” assents the peddler. “Cabinetski.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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