China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
The forests of birch and pine and fir, and the hills, as the car drives
eastward, close in again. The crests of mid-Siberian mountains lift
their snowy heads, and the train climbs up and up toward the great
central Lake Baikal, and the city of Irkutsk, 3378 miles from Moscow,
and further east than Mandalay.
When, on this seventh day, the train is winding up the Angara Valley
toward Irkutsk, one may mentally look back over the country that has
been traversed and estimate somewhat the meaning of the railway. The
Urals formed the first landmark. As in the dominion of the blind the
one-eyed man is king, so after the monotony of the plains, the Ural
Mountains seem great and worthy of the name given by the old Muscovite
geographer, the “Girdle of the World.” By actual measurements, however,
in their seventeen hundred miles of length, no peak rises over six
thousand feet. Coming eastward from the Urals the line has cut through
the southwestern corner of the old Tobolsk Government, has skirted
the northern border of the steppe, has bisected the Tomsk Province,
and after crossing the Yenesei River in Yeneseik has entered Irkutsk
Province, and traversed the central highland region nearly to Lake
Baikal.
Many who journey this way will have as their first impression, when the
long winter ride draws to its close, a feeling of depression, almost
of discouragement, so few are the settlements, so desolate seems all
Nature. They see the single line of rails, without a branch or feeder
in the mighty expanse from Chelliabinsk to Irkutsk, save for the stub
put in for the ungenerous outlanders of unlucky Tomsk. They calculate
that for a territory forty times the size of the British Isles, and
one and a half times as large as all Europe, the inadequacy of a
railroad less in total mileage than the Chicago, Milwaukee and St.
Paul, is manifest. Statistically-informed bankers sometimes shrug their
shoulders at the mention of the Trans-Siberian. “Every year a deficit,”
they say. “Gross earnings but twenty-four million roubles,--one sixth
of the Canadian Pacific Railway; one tenth of the Southern Railway.
_Hudoo_ (bad)!” One hears expressed not infrequently in Russia the
opinion that the railway is a sacrifice justified politically by
Russia’s need for a link to the Pacific, but ineffectual to secure
prosperity and advancement to the isolated land of mid-Siberia. It
is deemed, like the Pyramids, a monument to colossal effort and
achievement but of little service to mankind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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