China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
Curiously battered the furniture looks when you inspect it closely.
Here and there a flake is chipped away from the varnish, and cuts or
dents show in the paint. Have sabre fights, perhaps, taken place here,
or raids on assembling revolutionists? Certainly in the generations of
occupants, life has been, in some fashion, tumultuous.
There is a fumbling at the door-knob, and, without any preliminary
knocking, a waiter comes in with a nickel samovar, an empty teapot, and
a glass. He puts them down on the battered table and walks out. The big
kettle hums away pleasantly as the red charcoal in its hollow interior
glows from the upward draft. The preparations seem all made, save for
the tea. Perhaps the _chelaviek_ has gone to get it. You let your eye
rove around to the little ikon far up in the corner, and the sleighing
and wolf-shooting etchings on the walls. But after a time this becomes
tiresome. Has the secret gendarmerie descended on the waiter among his
teapots and trays? Has he forgotten the matter entirely, or what? The
corridor-call seems to be the only recourse. Once again you go out.
“_Chelaviek!_” and from some region he comes trotting up.
“Where is that tea?”
“Oh, _chai_,” he says, illumined. “Has the _gaspadine_ not his own?”
“Most decidedly the _gaspadine_ has not his own,” you retort. “The
_gaspadine_ does not carry pillow-shams or bales with him. He is not a
draper’s establishment or a grocer’s store.”
“_Nietchevo_,” says the waiter, amiably; and runs off, to return with
a saucer of tea-leaves, and another containing half a dozen lumps of
sugar.
“Your pardon, generally the _gaspadines_ have their own”; and he leaves
you to the brew and your meditations.
Well, it is pleasant, after a long train-ride, to stretch out in a big,
if battered, armchair, and sip glasses of anything hot. The little
teapot, full of a very strong decoction, is perched on the top of the
samovar over its chimney. For a fresh glass you pour out a half-inch
of the strong essence, throw in the sugar, and from the samovar’s
spigot fill the glass with hot water. It is thus just the strength
you personally prefer, and always hot. The samovar, by a judicious
regulation of the draft, can be kept for hours exactly at the boil. It
is a fine institution, but cannot be transplanted to a country where
hot charcoal embers are not constantly available.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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