China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
It is one thing to go to bed, another to sleep. Tales are told of
powder-circled couches which the invaders, surmounting these ramparts
by climbing walls, dropped upon from above. There is a legend that
there are some people whom they do not bite. “_Nietchevo!_” Is it not
Irkutsk, the Paris of Siberia? Why then complain of parasites?
Furthermore, a brass band has started up somewhere in the immediate
neighborhood the tune of _Viens poupoule!_ to which there echoes a
popular accompaniment of tapped glasses and stamping feet. Perhaps
one had better get up and see things after all,--“Needs must when the
Devil drives.” We dress again. An exploring expedition reveals the
big dining-room on the floor below full to the doors with uniformed
officers, long-haired students, and assorted civilians. All are
drinking and smoking. On a stage at one end of the room thirty
short-skirted damsels are singing and dancing in chorus, to the great
approval of the audience. As the curtain rolls down on an act, the
_ci-devant_ dancers descend to their friends on the floor. Corks pop,
and sweet champagne flows. The call goes up for “_Papirose!_” and more
cigarettes and more bottles come thick and fast.
Soon there is an air of subdued expectancy, and eager looks are
directed to the curtain. Somebody near by leans close and whispers for
your enlightenment, “All-black man!” Out comes an old Southern Negro,
who sings to the wondering Russians a Slavonic version of the “Suwanee
River,” between verses delivering himself, with many a flourish, of
a clog-dance. Johnson is the man’s name. How he drifted so far from
Charleston he hardly knows himself. He followed the music-halls to
‘Frisco, and somebody, for whom he “has a razor ready,” told him he
would make his fortune in Vladivostok. He kept getting further and
further into the interior, picking up the language as he went, and
turning his songs into the vernacular. Poor chap, the pathos he puts
into the “Suwanee River”! He is thinking, in frozen Irkutsk, of the old
Carolina homestead, and is singing and dancing his way back.
A girl in peasant dress takes the stage after “Sambo.” She is singing
some song that is running its course across northern Asia. The lassies
at the tables and the men join in. Glasses clink and heels tap. The
miners who have made their stake, the prospectors who hope to, the
sable-merchants of the Yakutsk, the wool-dealers from Mongolia, all
meet here as the first place where the rigors of the hinterland can be
compensated. It is very gay--very, very gay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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