China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
If for the third member of your personal suite you can get an old-time
servant to keep the guns clean, build the camp-fires when midday tea
is to be taken out of doors, bring in the baggage and rally the best
resources of each halting-place, you are doubly lucky. You will be
sedulously tended, and be treated partly as a prince, partly as a
helpless baby.
Of this order is Jacov Titoff. Not the smallest personal service that
he can render will you be permitted to do for yourself. The telling
of unpleasant truths will be carefully avoided, however certain the
ultimate revelation. Though honest beyond question, he pays you the
naïve compliment of relying upon your generosity in all the little
matters that concern provisions and petty luxuries. He will open the
package which he is carrying back from the _torgovlia_ to extract
matches and cigarettes for his own delectation, and will rifle
unstintingly the reserve of canned _sardinki_. He cheerfully freezes
himself waiting for deer, and stumbles up miles of snowy mountain
in the beats. He is always in good humor, and without complaint for
whatever comes. He is ready anywhere, at any time, to sleep or drink
vodka.
Thus outfitted and manned, take your place, muffled in furs, and seated
on the felt sleeping-blankets. Guns are at your side, the bag of
provisions is in front, your own little ponies paw the snow. They start
off now, trotting and galloping beneath the _duga_. The air is frosty,
clear, and thrilling as wine; the snow is feathery and uncrusted, as
when it fell months back; bells are jingling, and the driver is crying
his alternate endearments and curses upon the shaggy ponies. Down the
long rock-flanked river valleys, amid birch and pine forests, you will
skim, by unwonted paths, through out-of-the-world villages, to see in
their own homes the red-bloused peasants, the women spinning at the
wheel, the peddlers and priests, the traveling Mohammedan doctors, the
rough Buriats, miners and merchants, along the white way.
The smooth main road is left now for newly broken sledge-trails across
fields and over snow-covered marshland. Every available river is
utilized as a highway, for along its winding length the path, smooth
and level, is marked like a boulevard by the evergreen saplings planted
by villagers to guide the winter traveler. One can pierce the districts
flanking the Chickoya’s gorges, reachable at other seasons only by
breakneck climbs. And one can see the real Siberia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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