China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
On this first night of his incumbency, Ivan Kurbski lodges us with
friends. He leaves us for a moment while he enters the yard by the
wicket-gate to make due announcement, and the ponies hang their tired
frost-covered heads. Your own bows under an equal fatigue. But the wait
is very brief. Soon the big double gates of the log-stockaded courtyard
open. The horses of their own accord turn in, and swing up to the steps
of the house. You are handed out like an invalid grand duke, and are
welcomed at the threshold, with a hard hand-shake, by a red-bloused
peasant who ushers you up the steps, across the low-eaved portico, and
through the square felt-padded door into the big living-room.
As we all enter, Ivan and Jacov, caps in hand, bow and make the sign
of the cross toward the grouped ikons high up in the corner opposite
the door. The saints have guarded you on the way--are not thanks
the devoir? Then you, as head of the party, must salute, with a
“_Zdravstvouitie_,” your host, the old _Hazan_ father of the peasant
who, wearing a gray blouse sprayed with vivid flowers at breast and
wrists, sits on a bench beside the window. Now you may sit down beside
the massive table on the other bench, which is built along the whole
length of the log walls, and survey the curious world into which you
have fallen.
A woman of middle age, clad in bright red, is busy with a long hoe-like
instrument pushing pots into a great square oven six feet high, ten
feet to a side, and spotlessly whitewashed. To her right, in the
room beside the oven, is a girl of fifteen or sixteen, rolling brown
rye-dough on a little table, in perilous proximity to a trap-door
leading into some dark nether region. An old bent woman gravitates
between the two. Glancing up, one meets the wondering eyes of three
sleepy blinking urchins, who peer down in solemn interest from a big
cushion-covered shelf, two feet beneath the ceiling. Looking about to
locate the muffled sound of crows and clucks, one discovers, beneath
the oven, a corral of chickens, pecking with perky bills at the
whitewash for lime. On the floor is sitting a little girl crooning some
endless refrain to a baby in a sapling-swung cradle.
“The _gaspadine_ will take _chai_?” asks the patriarch. From the
woman’s room beside the oven the girl brings a samovar. She sets it on
the floor, beside an earthenware jar standing near the door, and dips
out the water to fill it. Then with tongs she takes a long red ember
from a niche cut in the side of the oven, and drops it down the samovar
funnel. Round loaves of frozen rye-bread are brought out and set to
thaw. A plate of eggs is produced from the cellar. One rolls off as
the girl passes, and falls to the floor. Instinctively you start. Not
so the others. The egg has dropped like a stone and rolled away. But
it is quietly picked up and put to boil with the rest. It is frozen so
solidly that there is not even a crack on the shell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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