China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
As one nears Chinese territory, by the lower waters of the Chickoya
River, the villages of Slavic colonists who hold their land on
tax-paying peasant tenure, have given place to the Buriat tribesmen
and to the _stanitzas_ of the Cossack guard that occupy the pale of
land flanking the frontier. Within this border-belt, every village
_stanitza_ holds its quota of Cossacks. These soldiers are for the
most part descendants of the levies from the Don region, transplanted
to the Trans-Baikal by the Government’s despotic hand in the
eighteenth century, and since then forming an hereditary military
caste. Many of them are bearded Slavs, indistinguishable, save for
their accoutrements, from their more peaceful neighbors. Others
are of a peculiar cast of countenance, due to the mixture with the
Asiatic tribes in ancient times, when the hunted people fled to their
ancestors’ asylum, the territories beyond the Volga and on the Don.
There is great variation in type among the imported Cossacks. Most are
Orthodox, but a very large number are “Old Believers,” or Semieski. In
all the houses now hang the yellow cap and the uniform coat, which must
be ever ready against the call of duty. Arms are in the corners of the
rooms, and everything has a military look, in marked contrast to the
peasant homes. Crude, highly-colored prints of Japanese defeats, which
circulated broadcast in Russia during the war, share the attention
usually devoted exclusively to holy ikons. Portraits of Generals
Linevitch and Kuropatkin, and Admiral Alexiev, are tacked to the
walls. In one house we saw hanging a prized silver watch, one of those
distributed by General Rennenkamp among the soldiers of his command.
One of our Cossack hosts is an old man, Orthodox, and of Russian
origin, but with some ancient Asiatic blood, for only a stringy beard
grows on his kindly, wrinkled face. With reluctant pride he tells of
his three sons away on service, leaving but himself and two daughters
at home. With frank happiness he shows you his medals. Every soldier at
the front received a round brass service-medal; his, however, a silver
cross with St. George and the Dragon on it, is given for valor. He will
not drink the vodka he offers you,--rheumatism. But in order that you
may smoke some alleged tobacco that greatly interests him because he
gathered it himself by the roadside, in Manchuria, he starts up his
pipe despite the dust-induced coughs that it begets. He is a kindly,
loquacious old man.
Another Cossack, privileged to the broad yellow top on his cap and
the yellow stripe on his trousers, is, for the time, our guide and
gun-carrier. His flat strongly-mustached face is open and ingenuous. He
tells of his _sotnia_ in Manchuria.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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