China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
In the homes of these least advanced Buriats we loiter no longer than
we must. The wooden house which shelters them is hermetically sealed,
and is crowded with people and animals. Fenced off in a corner of
the first that receives us is a corral of thirteen lambs, which at
uncertain moments begin to bleat suddenly in unison, producing, with
startling effect, a prodigious volume of sound. When one has been
roused from sleep half a dozen times a night by this chorus, he is
strongly inspired to move on. The men are out during the day looking to
their flocks. The women spend a good part of their time sewing furs or
making felt. They are very unclean, and it is a decided relief to get
out of their homes, to which the cold compels one to have recourse on
a long journey. In spring, with great and understandable relief, these
semi-nomads take to their felt tents and move where fancy and pasturage
dictate.
One grade higher are those Buriats who have learned some rudimentary
farming from the Orthodox. You will see the men threshing on a level
floor beside the corral. They are dressed in long blue or magenta
fur-lined cloaks and colored cone-shaped hats. Other Buriats are
permanently resident in the Slavonic settlements, and send their
rosy-faced children to school. They mix with the Russians, subject to
almost no disabilities, and their better classes contract inter-racial
marriages, which seem, to an outsider, at least, completely happy and
successful.
It is no small thing, this which Russian rule has done for the Buriats.
A people whom any other nation would spurn in racial ostracism, perhaps
would eliminate, live side by side with the good-natured Slav in
perfect accord, progressing in civilization and material well-being as
high as the individual can aspire to and attain.
They are ruled by their own chiefs, whose sway is tempered by the
benevolent supervision of the general government. They are represented
in the Duma by men of their own selection. They freely worship the
Buddhist Burhan in their lamasery near Cellinginsk, without pope to
preach or missionary to proselyte. Their easy citizenship is unharassed
by money taxes, and their only obligation is Cossack service in the
army. But Cossack service to a Buriat is what a picnic is to a boy.
Riding around on horseback, rationed by the Government, visiting a
city with real tobacco and vodka sometimes attainable, sleeping on a
straw-stuffed mattress with no tethered lambs to murder sleep, when
they are used to a sheepskin on the dirt floor,--all this is luxury of
blissful memory, during the years of the reserve. The net result is
that the Buriats are entirely content. They are progressing all along
the line, and are being made useful to the nation, not by unpayable
taxation, but by the service which they are so especially fitted to
render.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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