China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
The horses leap free under the knotted lash of the Siberian driver.
With the rumble of low thunder the ponderous wooden wheels bound over
the rutty road, hurling the springless tarantass into the air and from
side to side. You brace yourself with baggage and hold to the sides,
but toss despite all, like corn in a popper. The hay on which you sit
shifts away to one side, leaving the bare boards to rub through clothes
and packs. A sudden splinter makes you jump like a startled deer beside
the way. In this noisy tarantass, down the narrow road grooved with
the ruts of the Mongol carts and sledges that have gone northward, you
tumble and groan and bump and roll out across the open country.
There is a wide plain from Maimachen. It climbs into the first
barrier-range and the forest belt of Mongolia, whose plateau is the
third terrace in the rise of land from the low frozen flats of the
Northern Lena to the Roof of the World,--the Himalayas of the south.
The northern city of Yakutsk is at a very low elevation, only a few
feet above the sea. Irkutsk on the fifty-second parallel is 1521 feet
in altitude, Troitzkosavsk on the fifty-first is 2600, Urga on the
forty-eighth 3770, Lhassa 11,000 feet.
Far to the northwest, Mongolia is a forested fur region; far to the
south is Shama--the desert. Here at the north and east the forested
belt of the Siberian highlands south of Baikal breaks off almost at the
boundary.
Snow is over everything, but thinly. It has been worn away on the road,
leaving brown patches over which the tarantass, mounting the long
slope with horses at a slow trot, lugubriously thuds. A long stretch
of straggly trees and stumps tells of Kiahta peasants going over the
border to cut wood where no timber-laws limit. Up and up we go, the
way steeper every _sagene_,--afoot now and the horses leaning and
pulling at the traces. Finally silhouetted against the sky appears a
rough pile of stones. At its top bannerets are waving from drooping
poles. It is the Borisan on the summit of the pass to which every
pious Mongol adds an offering, until the pile is many feet high, with
stones, sticks, pieces of bread and bones. Some throw money which
no one save a Chinaman will commit the sacrilege of touching; some
give a Moscow paper-wrapped sweetmeat, some a child’s worn hat or
yellow-printed prayer-cloths waving on their sticks and fading in the
wind;--everything is holy that is given to the gods.
A piercing wind, searching and paralyzing, meets the tarantass
beyond the crest at the southern border of the forest: it is Gobi’s
compliments to Baikal, the salute of the great desert to the great
lake. The horses stumble through the drifted snow, scarcely able to
walk. The driver, blinded, half-frozen, keeps to the general direction
of the obliterated trail. Barely one verst an hour is made, until,
under the shelter of the bald white range of hills, the road reappears
and the wind is warded off.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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