The Sea and Its Living Wonders: A Popular Account of the Marvels of the Deep and of the Progress of Martime Discovery from the Earliest Ages to the Present Time — John Shaqi
The Sea and Its Living Wonders: A Popular Account of the Marvels of the Deep and of the Progress of Martime Discovery from the Earliest Ages to the Present TimeHartwig, G. (Georg)
History
The Sea and Its Living Wonders: A Popular Account of the Marvels of the Deep and of the Progress of Martime Discovery from the Earliest Ages to the Present Time
Hartwig, G. (Georg)
Animal behavior; Discoveries in geography; Discoveries in geography -- History; Marine animals; Marine plants; Ocean
"The average wave was, I believe, fully equal to that of my sight on
the paddle-box, or more than 15 feet, and the _mean highest waves_, not
including the broken or acuminated crests, rose about 43 feet above
the level of the hollow occupied at the moment by the ship. It was a
grand storm-scene, and nothing could exceed the pictorial effect of the
partial sunbeams breaking through the heavy masses of clouds." From the
time taken by a regular wave to pass from stern to stem, Dr. Scoresby
calculated its velocity at 2875 feet in each minute, or 32·67 English
statute miles in an hour. The mean length of the wave-ridges, was from a
quarter to a third of a mile.
To those who might be inclined to doubt the accuracy of these
measurements, the remark may suffice that our celebrated countryman had
been for years engaged in the northern whale-fishery, where he had ample
opportunities for practising his eye in measuring distances. Besides,
the conclusions of many other trustworthy observers coincide with the
evaluations of Dr. Scoresby.
Thus Captain Wilkes, commander of the U. S. Exploring Expedition, found
the height of the waves near Orange Harbour, where they rose higher and
more regular than at any other time during the cruise, to be thirty-two
feet (depression and altitude), and their apparent progressive motion
about twenty-six and a half miles in an hour.
Sir James Ross calculated the height of the waves on a strongly agitated
sea at twenty-two feet, and, according to the French naturalists who
sailed in the frigate "La Venus," on her voyage round the world, the
highest waves they met with never exceeded that measure.
Thus, according to the joint testimony of the most eminent nautical
authorities, the waves in the open sea never attain the mountain-height
ascribed to them by the exuberant fancy of poets or exaggerating
travellers. But when the tempest surge beats against steep crags or rocky
coasts it rises to a much more considerable height. The lighthouse of
Bell Rock, though 112 feet high, is literally buried in foam and spray
to the very top during ground-swells, even when there is no wind. On the
20th November, 1827, the spray rose to the height of 117 feet above the
foundation or low-water mark, which, deducting eleven feet for the tide
that day, leaves 106 feet for the height of the wave. The strength of
that remarkable edifice may be estimated from the fact, that the power of
such a giant billow is equivalent to a pressure of three tons per square
foot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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