The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 1Whymper, Frederick
History
The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 1
Whymper, Frederick
Adventure and adventurers; Arctic regions; Ocean; Voyages around the world
Leaving the north, and passing the leading station already described on
Vancouver Island, the sailor has the whole Pacific coasts of both
Americas, clear to Cape Horn, before him as part of the Pacific Station.
There is Mexico, with its port of Acapulco; New Granada, with the
important sea-port town of Panama; Callao, Peru; and Valparaiso, in Chili:
at any of which H.B.M. vessels are commonly to be found. Panama is,
indeed, a very important central point, as officers of the Royal Navy,
ordered to join vessels elsewhere, usually leave their own at Panama,
cross the isthmus, and take steamer to England, _viâ_ St. Thomas’s, or by
way of New York, thence crossing to Liverpool. The railroad—which, during
its construction, is said to have cost the life of a Chinaman for every
sleeper laid down, so fatal was the fever of the isthmus—has the dearest
fares of any in the world. The distance from Panama across to Aspinwall
(Colon) is about forty miles, and the fare is £5! An immense amount of
travel crosses the isthmus; and it is only matter of time for a canal to
be cut through some portion of it, or the isthmus of Darien adjoining.
Steamers of the largest kind are arriving daily at Panama from San
Francisco, Mexico, and all parts of South America; while, on the Atlantic
side, they come from Southampton, Liverpool, New York and other American
ports.
Southward, with favouring breezes and usually calm seas, one soon arrives
at Callao—a place which may yet become a great city, but which, like
everything else in Peru, has been retarded by interminable dissensions in
regard to government and politics, and by the ignorance and bigotry of the
masses. Peru had an advantage over Chili in wealth and importance at one
time; but, while the latter country is to-day one of the most satisfactory
and stable republics in the world, one never knows what is going to happen
next in Peru. Hence distrust in commerce; and hence the sailor will not
find a tithe of the shipping in Callao Roads that he will at the wharfs of
Valparaiso. Lima, the capital, is situated behind Callao, at a distance of
about six miles. When seen from the deck of a vessel in the roadstead, the
city has a most imposing appearance, with its innumerable domes and spires
rising from so elevated a situation, and wearing a strange and rather
Moorish air. On nearing the city, everything speaks eloquently of past
splendour and present wretchedness; public walks and elegant ornamental
stone seats choked with rank weeds, and all in ruins. You enter Lima
through a triumphal arch, tawdry and tumbling to pieces; you find that the
churches, which looked so imposing in the distance, are principally stucco
and tinsel. Lima has a novelty in one of its theatres. It is built in a
long oval, the stage occupying nearly the whole of one long side, all the
boxes being thus comparatively near it. The pit audience is men, and the
galleries, women; and all help to fill the house, between the acts, with
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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