The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 1Whymper, Frederick
History
The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 1
Whymper, Frederick
Adventure and adventurers; Arctic regions; Ocean; Voyages around the world
Jamaica has picked up a good deal in these later days, but is not the
thriving country it was before the abolition of slavery. Kingston is
described as a formal city, with streets at right angles, and with
generally ugly buildings. The fact is, that hardly any Europeans or even
well-to-do Creoles live in the town, and, in consequence, there are long
streets, which might almost belong to a city of the dead, where hardly a
soul is to be seen: at all events, in the evenings. All the wealthier
people—and there are a large number—have country seats—“pens,” as they
call them, though often so charmingly situated, and so beautifully
surrounded, that the term does not seem very appropriate. The sailor’s
pocket-money will go a long way in Kingston, if he confines himself to
native productions; but woe unto him if he will insist on imported
articles! All through the island the white people are very English in
their longings, and affect to despise the native luxuries. Thus, they will
give you ox-tail soup when real turtle would be infinitely cheaper. “When
yams, avocado pears, the mountain cabbage, plantains, and twenty other
delicious vegetables may be had for the gathering, people will insist on
eating bad English potatoes; and the desire for English pickles is quite a
passion.” All the servants are negroes or mulattoes, who are greatly
averse to ridicule or patronage; while, if one orders them as is usual in
England, they leave you to wait on yourself. Mr. Trollope discovered this.
He ordered a lad in one of the hotels to fill his bath, calling him “old
fellow.” “Who you call fellor?” asked the youth; “you speak to a gen’lman
gen’lmanly, and den he fill de bath.”
The sugar-cane—and by consequence, sugar and rum—coffee, and of late
tobacco, are the staple productions of Jamaica. There is one district
where the traveller may see an unbroken plain of 4,000 acres under canes.
The road over Mount Diabolo is very fine, and the view back to Kingston
very grand. Jack ashore will find that the people all ride, but that the
horses always walk. There are respectable mountains to be ascended in
Jamaica: Blue Mountain Peak towers to the height of 8,000 feet. The
highest inhabited house on the island, the property of a coffee-planter,
is a kind of half-way house of entertainment; and although Mr.
Trollope—who provided himself with a white companion, who, in his turn,
provided five negroes, beef, bread, water, brandy, and what seemed to him
about ten gallons of rum—gives a doleful description of the clouds and
mists and fogs which surrounded the Peak, others may be more fortunate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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