The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 4Whymper, Frederick
History
The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 4
Whymper, Frederick
Adventure and adventurers; Arctic regions; Ocean; Voyages around the world
Mr. Gosse well describes some of the Devonshire coast scenery. “Now,” says
he, “we are under Lidstep Head, a promontory in steepness and height
rivalling its ‘proud’ opponents. I never before saw cliffs like these. The
stratification is absolutely perpendicular, and as straight as a line,
taking the appearance at every turn of enormous towers, castles, and
abbeys, in which the fissures bear the closest resemblance to loopholes
and doors. Great areas open enclosed as if with vast walls. The sea
surface was particularly smooth, and we ventured to pull into one of
these, exactly as if into a ruined castle or vast abbey; chamber opening
beyond chamber, bounded and divided by what I must call _walls_ of rock,
enormous in height, and as straight as the architect’s plumb would have
made them, with the smooth sea for the floor. If the tide had been high,
instead of being low‐water of a spring tide, we might have rowed all about
this great enclosed court; but as it was, the huge square upright rocks
were appearing above water, like massive altars and tables. The sea was
perfectly clear, and we could look down to the foundations of the
precipices where the purple‐ringed Medusæ were playing. Altogether, it was
a place of strange grandeur; we felt as if we were in a palace of the sea
genii, as if we were where we ought not to be, and when a gull shrieked
over our heads, and uttered his short, hollow, mocking laugh, we started
and looked at one another as though something uncanny had challenged us,
though the sun was shining broadly over the tops of those Cyclopean walls.
“We left this natural palace with regret; but the tide was near its lowest
ebb, and I wished to be on the rocks for whatever might be obtainable in
natural history. The lads, therefore, gave way, and we swiftly shot past
this coast of extraordinary sublimity. Presently we came to the Droch,
where a more majestic cavern than any we had yet seen appears. Up on a
beach of yellow sand its immense span is reared with a secondary entrance;
the arch of uniting stone is thrown across with a beautiful lightness, and
appears as if hewn with the mason’s chisel. Dark domes are seen within,
far up in the lofty vaulted roof, and pools of still, clear glassy water
mirror the rude walls. This is certainly a glorious cave.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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