On a certain day, not of tempest but of emotion, when old Ocean
indulged only in wild and graceful gaieties, I was tranquilly seated
upon a beautiful headland of some eighty feet in height, and I enjoyed
myself in watching the waves as upon a line of a quarter of a league
they rushed in as if to assail my rocky seat, the green crest of each
wave rounding and rearing, wave urging wave as though in actual and
intelligent racing. Now and then a sea would strike so that my very
headland seemed to tremble, and burst as with a thunder clap at my
very feet. Advancing, retiring, returning, breaking, the wildly
sportive waves were for a long time quite admirably regular in their
movements. But on a sudden this regularity was at an end. Some wild
cross wave from the west suddenly struck my great regular and hitherto
well behaved wave from the south. Such was the crash that in an
instant the very sky above me was darkened by the blinding spray; and
on my lofty promontory I was covered, not with the many colored and
fleeting mist, but with a huge, dark, massive wave, which fell on me,
heavy, crushing, and thoroughly saturating. Ah! Just then I should
very much have liked the company of those very learned Academicians
and ultra positive Engineers, who are so well posted up in the combats
of the Ocean, and so very certain that the utmost height of a wave is
just twenty feet! No; tranquilly seated in our studies we should _not_
lightly question the veracity of so many bold, hardy, and resolved
men, who have looked Death in the face too often to be guilty of the
childish vanity of exaggerating the dangers which they have often
braved--and are ready to brave again. Nor should we ever oppose the
calm narratives of ordinary navigators on the great and well known
courses to the animated and often thrilling pictures occasionally
presented to us by the bold discoverers who seek the very reefs and
shoals which the common herd of sailors so carefully avoid. Cook,
Peron, Durville--discoverers such as these incurred very real dangers
in the then unfrequented Australian and Coraline seas, compelled as
they were to dare the continually shifting sand bank, and the
conflicting currents which raise such frightful commotions in the
narrow channels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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