We will now leave Valetta, with its harbour and forts, its close-packed houses and busy streets, to visit another island 53 of the Maltese group, more thinly populated than Malta and more old-fashioned and rural. We sail northward along the coast, past the deep bay which tradition connects with the wreck of St. Paul, past the islet of Comino, with its solitary castle, lying in mid-channel, and reach the landing-place of Gozo. Here, on the side facing Malta, the coast is low; but the rest of the island is bordered by steep limestone cliffs, hollowed out into caves and grottos. One of these our guide will show us as the very cave of Calypso described by Homer. We land and drive towards the 54 old capital, Rabato, re-named Victoria, which lies in the centre of the island, like the old capital of Malta; but there is no deep inlet on the coast to give rise to another Valetta. From the walls of the old castle, close to the cathedral, we can look 55 across the same flat country, cut up into pieces by stone 56 walls, which we saw in Malta. But the countryside is brighter; on our drive to Rabato we pass gardens where vegetables are grown for the Valetta market; thick hedges of scarlet geranium; fields of tall spiked red clover and banks of wild thyme and vetch. Gozo has been noted for its honey from very early times, and there is abundance of food here for the bees. Everywhere are herds of goats tended by half-clad children, and outside the houses we may see whole families of women and girls busy making lace. 57 The Maltese lace which we buy comes mainly from Gozo, where the industry has existed for thousands of years. Here is one of the old houses; notice its curious eastern look; we shall find 58 that even the language seems to differ somewhat from that of the Maltese and to be allied more to Arabic.