The Sea Road to the East, Gibraltar to Wei-hai-wei: Six Lectures Prepared for the Visual Instruction Committee of the Colonial OfficeSargent, A. J. (Arthur John)
History
The Sea Road to the East, Gibraltar to Wei-hai-wei: Six Lectures Prepared for the Visual Instruction Committee of the Colonial Office
Sargent, A. J. (Arthur John)
Travel -- Guidebooks
Somaliland is rather larger than England and Wales together, yet
a short excursion inland to the mountains will tell us nearly
all that we want to know about the country and its inhabitants.
Our way lies southward, across a desolate, stony plain, studded
with dry thorn bushes; it does not seem an inviting country.
The plain is narrow here, but further west towards Zeila it
broadens out to over fifty miles. A few miles out, where we
touch the foothills, we may be surprised to find springs of
warm water, issuing from the limestone rock. On these Berbera
depends for its existence, as there is no rainfall on the plain 4,5
worth considering. Here we see one of these springs and here
is the reservoir. Leaving the plain we mount a steep slope and
come out on a plateau; it is even more bare and stony than the 6
plain below. In front our track leads towards a long ridge, five
thousand feet high, the Gorlis Mountains; on our left is the
still higher range of Wagga. We cross the plateau and climb
up the pass to Sheikh; here we see our path by a rocky torrent 7
bed. We must carry with us our own camp, as we shall find
little shelter in this wild country and few inhabitants; though
when we have pitched our tent for the night, we have a visit 8
from a native, armed with spear and shield, and curious to make
the acquaintance of the white intruder. We notice that he seems
very suspicious of the camera. At Sheikh we are in the heart of
the mountains. From the bungalow of the political officer we 9
have a fine view down the long, steep pass, and can form some
idea of the nature of the rugged country through which we 10
are travelling. Here is another view across the mountain ridges.
To reach the highest view-point we must ride eastward to
Wagga, across another part of the plateau, dry and desolate as
before. Dotted here and there are gigantic red pillars; these
strange-looking shapes are not rocks but ant hills; they are 11
sometimes large enough to give us a little shade from the burning
sun of the desert. We can judge the size of the hill before us
by comparison with our camel escort; and here is a closer 12
view of another to help us. Far away in the background we can
distinguish the Wagga Mountains. The stony slopes of Wagga 13
are less bare than the plateau, though the vegetation again is
mostly thorns and aloes, with here and there a few cedars. After
a long scramble we reach the summit, up among the clouds, six
thousand feet above the level of the sea. Here are two views 14
from the summit, one towards the east, the other towards 15
the west; and here is our native guide, Giringh by name, 16
pointing northwards to where, over forty miles away, we can just
catch a glimpse of the Gulf of Aden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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