Before exploring inland we will borrow the Government launch for a short trip up the coast to Usikaan Bay. Here is a fine 52 portrait of our skipper. He is a typical coastman; his mother a native of Brunei, his father from Sarawak. He is a Mohammedan, like most of the coastmen, and is full of the lore and legend of the island. We land at a little pier and enter a shed, which is the Custom House. There is no sign of inhabitants, as the building is used only when the local steamer calls to collect the up-country produce. We have come here to look at the scenery, not the people, so we climb the hill above the bay, from which we can look down on the Abai river, flowing out beyond the next headland. It is a typical Borneo river. On both banks is the usual tropical swamp, and all around us is tropical vegetation. Here we can see the wonderful Pitcher Plant of these regions, 53 though the finest specimens are to be found further inland towards Mount Kinabalu. Turning away from the sea we have a view of the long ridge of Kinabalu, with the upper part of 54 the Abai river in the foreground. From this outlook we can gain a very fair idea of the character of tropical Borneo. So far we have kept to the outer edge of the island; the railway from Jesselton will carry us inland, though not very far, as it runs on the whole parallel to the coast. The inland terminus of the line is at Tenom, east of Brunei Bay and behind the coast range of mountains. Here, too, native sports are in progress, but they are a much more important business than at Jesselton; they are announced months beforehand and provide a common meeting-place for the many native tribes of the interior. The contests are also especially fitted to the tastes and occupations of the natives, so that we may learn much from them. The raft 55 race is one of the most popular, as the rivers are the only means of traffic in the interior and the natives are skilled in handling every form of river craft. Even more interesting to 56 us is the shooting match with the _sumpitan_, the long blowpipe with poisoned darts which in this region takes the place of the bow and arrow. Here we find this formidable weapon put to a harmless use in shooting at the running deer; it is a kind of native Bisley. The crowds of spectators show us every type of native face and dress. Here is a group of Muruts with 57 _sumpitans_, and here are some visitors, Sea Dyaks from 58 Sarawak, whose name is associated with piracy and head-hunting. The Muruts seem to be the aborigines of this part of the interior; they are unlike the coast people in appearance and they are pagans, not Mohammedans; but they share with the Sea Dyaks their liking for head-hunting, and would soon revive the practice were British control removed.