Marine biology -- Great Britain; Seashore; Seashore biology
Thus we may find much to admire and study on the sea shore at all times,
but there are attractions of quite another nature that call for notice
on a stormy day, especially on the wilder and more desolate western
coasts. At such times we delight to watch the distant waves as they
approach the shore, to see how they become gradually converted into the
foaming breakers that dash against the standing rocks and wash the
rattling pebbles high on the beach. The powerful effects of the sea in
wearing away the cliffs are now apparent, and we can well understand
that even the most obdurate of rocks must sooner or later break away
beneath its mighty waves.
[Illustration: FIG. 6.--BREAKERS]
The extreme mobility of the sea is displayed not only by the storm
waves, and by the soft ripples of the calm day, but is seen in the
gentle currents that almost imperceptibly wash our shores, and more
manifestly in the perpetual motions of the tides.
This last-named phenomenon is one of extreme interest to the sea-side
rambler, and also one of such great importance to the naturalist that we
cannot do better than spend a few moments in trying to understand how
the swaying of the waters of the ocean is brought about, and to see what
determines the period and intensity of its pulsations, as well as some
of the variations in the daily motions which are to be observed on our
own shores.
In doing this we shall, of course, not enter fully into the technical
theories of the tides, for which the reader should refer to
authoritative works on the subject, but merely endeavour to briefly
explain the observed oscillations of the sea and the general laws which
govern them.
The most casual observer must have noticed the close connection between
the movements of the ocean and the position of the moon, while those who
have given closer attention to the subject will have seen that the
relative heights of the tides vary regularly with the relative positions
of the sun, moon, and earth.
In the first place, then, we notice that the time of high tide in any
given place is always the same at the same period of the cycle of the
moon; that is, it is always the same at the time of new moon, full moon,
&c. Hence it becomes evident that the moon is the prime mover in the
formation of tides. Now, it is a fact that the sun, though about
ninety-three millions of miles from the earth, has a much greater
attractive influence on the earth and its oceans than the moon has,
although the distance of the latter is only about a quarter of a million
miles: but this is due to the vastly superior mass of the sun, which is
about twenty-six million times the mass of the moon. How is it, then,
that we find the tides apparently regulated by the moon rather than by
the sun?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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