Marine biology -- Great Britain; Seashore; Seashore biology
Again, the difference between high and low water marks is not always
exactly the same for the same kind of tide--the spring tide for a
certain period, for example, not having the same limits as the same tide
of another time. This is due to the fact that the moon revolves round
the sun in an elliptical orbit, while the earth, at the same time,
revolves round the sun in a similar path, so that the distances of both
moon and sun from the earth vary at different times. And, since the
tide-producing influences of both these bodies must increase as their
distance from the earth diminishes, it follows that there must be
occasional appreciable variations in the vigour of the tidal movements
of the ocean.
As the earth rotates on its axis, while at the same time the tidal wave
must necessarily keep its position under the moon, this wave appears to
sweep round the earth with considerable velocity. The differences in the
level of the ocean thus produced would hardly be appreciable if the
earth were entirely covered with water; but, owing to the very irregular
distribution of the land, the movements of the tidal wave become
exceedingly complex; and, when it breaks an entrance into a gradually
narrowing channel, the water is compressed laterally, and
correspondingly increased in height. It is thus that we find a much
greater difference between the levels of high and low tides in
continental seas than are to be observed on the shores of oceanic
islands.
We have occupied so much of our time and space in explanation of the
movements of the tides not only because we think it desirable that all
who delight in sea-side rambles should understand something of the
varied motions which help to give such a charm to the sea, but also
because, as we shall observe later, these motions are a matter of great
importance to those who are interested in the observation and study of
marine life. And, seeing that we are writing more particularly for the
young naturalists of our own island, we must devote a little space to
the study of the movements of the tidal wave round Great Britain, in
order that we may understand the great diversity in the time of high
tide on any one day on different parts of the coast, and see how the
time of high tide for one part may be calculated from that of any other
locality.
Were it not for the inertia of the ocean and the resistance offered by
the irregular continents, high tide would always exist exactly under the
moon, and we should have high water at any place just at the time when
the moon is in the south and crossing the meridian of that place. But
while the inertia of the water tends to make all tides late, the
irregular distribution of the land breaks up the tidal wave into so many
wave-crests and greatly retards their progress.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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