The first thing to do is to prepare a flat, strong slab of hard wood or stone, the exact shape and size of the desired artificial pool, and then cover this, if of wood, with a mixture of fine sand and cement, mixed to a convenient consistency with water, to the depth of about one inch. The banks or walls of the pool must then be built up on all sides, and this is best done by the gradual addition of soft pellets of cement, applied in such a manner as to produce an irregular surface. Unless the walls of the aquarium be very thick and massive the cement will soon show a tendency to fall from its place as the height increases, but this may be avoided by doing the work in instalments, allowing each portion to set before further additions are made to the structure. Since some marine animals like to occupy snug and shady niches in deep water while others prefer full exposure to the light in shallows, arrangements should be made for all by varying the depth of the bed, and providing several little tunnels and caverns. This may be accomplished either by working the cement itself into suitable form, or by means of piled stones obtained from the sea beach; and if the latter plan is adopted, the stones should not be obtained until the aquarium is quite ready for its living contents; for then a selection of stones and rock fragments with weeds, anemones, sponges, and other fixed forms of life attached to them, may be made. The natural appearance of a rock pool is thus more nearly approached, and in a shorter time than if the sedentary life were required to develop on an artificial ground. Objection may be raised to the form of aquarium just described on the ground that no life within it is visible except when viewed from above. But is not this also the case with a rock pool on the sea shore? And has any admirer of nature ever been heard to complain of the beauties of such a pool because he was unable to look at them through the sides? Further, it may be urged that the inmates of our aquarium will be living under more natural conditions than those of the more popular glass-sided aquaria, _because_ they receive light from above only. [Illustration: FIG. 35.--CEMENT AQUARIUM WITH A GLASS PLATE IN FRONT] However, should the reader require a glass front to his cement tank, the matter is easily accomplished. Three sides are built up as before described. A sheet of thick glass--plate glass by preference--is then cut to the size and shape of the remaining space, and this is fixed by means of cement pressed well against its edges, both inside and outside. Water should not be put into the tank until it is quite dry; and, if one side is made of glass, not until the cement surrounding the edge of the glass has been liberally painted with marine glue, hot pitch, or some other suitable waterproof material.