The glider is thrown with the smaller end forward. For the trial flight, mount the smaller plane at the extreme forward end and then move it backward as you test it out, until the glider moves on an even keel. To launch the glider, grasp the central stick from beneath at the point where it balances, and throw it forward with all your might. Since it travels at a much higher speed than a power-driven model aeroplane, it requires much less supporting surface, while the planes may be spaced much further apart. When you have adjusted the planes, try throwing your glider at an upward angle of say forty-five degrees. It should rise swiftly to a height of upwards of fifty feet, turn backward on itself, and even describe a graceful upward curve before coming down. Now try throwing it into the wind or against a moderately strong breeze. Its course is likely to be very irregular. It will dip and rise at many unexpected angles, and probably travel several hundred feet in all before landing. During the past year, a model glider has been built by Mr. W. H. Howell, Jr., to glide a horizontal distance of 650 feet, while the actual length of the flights has been upwards of 2,000 feet. CHAPTER IV TOOLS AND MATERIALS A well-stocked tool chest will be of great assistance to the builder of model aeroplanes, but it is by no means essential. A few simple tools, easily obtained, will be found to answer. First of these comes a serviceable pair of nippers. You will need them to bend the axles of your propellers, in adjusting the motors, and for a score of uses. A pair of nippers with a cutting edge is best. Always be sure to slip these in your pocket before flying your model, for you are sure to need them. A fine gimlet, or a needle drill, will be found useful in a score of ways. They cost but a few cents. A handle which may be adjusted to drills of different size is best. A drill one thirty-second of an inch in diameter will be found especially useful. The parts of your model are likely to be delicate and easily split, even while driving a small brad. You can avoid the danger of splitting by first using the needle drill, even for small brads, and then enlarging the hole, if necessary, with a larger drill or a gimlet. [Illustration: Percy Pierce launching a model] [Illustration: A French model built of aluminium] A fine saw will be found very useful,—the finer the better. The timber used for the frame is so light and soft that it is likely to split. A gig saw will be found just the thing for cutting out propeller blanks and other parts, but it is not essential. If your model be made of metal, a small soldering iron will, of course, be found indispensable,—the smaller the better. The metal parts are very delicate, and the iron should have as fine a point as possible. Such an iron can be obtained at a hardware store for a few cents. If you do not know how to solder neatly consult some tinsmith. [Illustration: Diagram for making the planes]