The secret history of the court of Spain during the last centuryChallice, Rachel
History
The secret history of the court of Spain during the last century
Challice, Rachel
Spain -- Court and courtiers; Spain -- History -- Bourbons, 1700-
Then, when the candles were removed by the Chamberlains, the strains
from the beautiful stringed orchestra accompanied the fine voices
of the hidden choir, which swelled in harmony in the chants of
the occasion. The lofty cupola of the chapel, with its mythical
painting supported by the gilt cherubs poised above the marble and
porphyry-pillared panels of the walls, were a fitting setting to the
scene.
Then the candles were once more handed round, and the glittering
company again knelt in prayer. When the torches were finally taken from
the worshippers, the assembly all left the chapel in solemn order, each
grandee kneeling in turn for a second before the altar, and crossing
himself before saluting the Queens in the royal box. The Infanta Maria
Teresa, the Infanta Isabel, and the Court ladies, made a low reverence
to both the Queens in the royal box before leaving the chapel, and the
King, with his characteristic freedom from the fetters of etiquette,
disregarded the scarlet mat, and knelt on the carpeted floor for a
minute before the altar; and then with his natural grace he made a
respectful salute to both his mother and his wife, and left the church,
to pass once more with his retinue, and followed by the military, along
the tapestry-lined galleries to the royal apartments.
The Court of Spain is especially noted for its cult of symbolism. The
events of the Church calendar are presented in a realistic way which is
suggestive of the Middle Ages.
I believe the Courts of Spain and Austria are alone in their dramatic
representation of Christ’s act of washing the feet of the disciples and
feeding them on the eve of the Crucifixion.
HOW THE KING WASHES THE FEET OF THE BEGGARS AND FEEDS THEM ON MAUNDAY
THURSDAY.
It is only by special invitation from the chief Court Chamberlain that
one can witness the King’s performance of this religious function on
Maunday Thursday. Being the fortunate possessor of this permit, I
passed at three o’clock in the afternoon to the Hall of Columns in
the palace. There the Court soon assembles in state, the ladies in
magnificent dresses, of which the trains are tastefully arranged by the
Gentlemen-in-Waiting over the backs of the chairs behind them, and the
throng of nobles, Ministers, and officers in their gorgeous uniforms,
make a brilliant show.
The King soon appears, attended by the Bishop of Alcalá and Sion, some
clerics, and twelve grandees in Court attire. After divesting himself
of his sword, Alfonso is girded with a towel by the prelate, and passes
to the line of beggars, who sit humbly waiting for the honour which is
to be paid them.
These poor men are chosen by lottery about a fortnight preceding the
function, and their feet naturally undergo a course of preparation
prior to the ceremony, and they are all swathed in the long Spanish
cloaks given them for the occasion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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