The Sexual Life of Our Time in Its Relations to Modern Civilization: Translated from the Sixth German EditionBloch, Iwan
Philosophy
The Sexual Life of Our Time in Its Relations to Modern Civilization: Translated from the Sixth German Edition
Bloch, Iwan
Sex; Sexual ethics
“The waist, which is already, roughly speaking, indicated by the sash
or girdle, but which, in consequence of the progressive
differentiation of feminine clothing, comes to play a principal part
in women’s dress, divides the woman’s body into thorax and abdomen.
The fully clothed woman becomes an insect, a wasp, with two sharply
defined emotional and sexual spheres, with a heavenly and an earthly
division.”[105]
With this classification and differentiation of clothing there now
developed a fertile field for the activity of “fashion,” which
therefore, as such, first really takes its rise in the middle ages.
According to Sombart,[106] it was in the Italian States of the fifteenth
century that it first became a living reality. Fashion is a product of
the Christian middle ages; the specific element that this period
introduced into feminine clothing--the corset--is a witness to Christian
doctrine.
Stratz remarks on this subject:
“Strange as it may seem, it is very remarkably true that =the corset
derives its origin from the Christian worship of God=. Owing to the
strict ecclesiastical control in the middle ages--strict, at least, as
regards public life--the dominant ascetic point of view demanded the
fullest possible covering of the feminine body, and the =mortification
of the flesh=; it insisted, at any rate, that those portions of the
body should be withdrawn from the view of sinful man which are
regarded as especially characteristic of the female sex. Through woman
sin had entered the world, and therefore woman must, above all, take
care to conceal as much as possible the sinful characteristics of her
baser sex. Whilst man, by the greatest possible increase in breadth of
shoulders and chest, endeavoured to suggest a more powerful and
warlike aspect, we find that among women from the twelfth to the
sixteenth century, the endeavour was dominant to make the breasts as
flat and childlike and as narrow as possible, and for this purpose,
=for the compression and obliteration of the breasts, an early form of
the corset was employed=.”[107]
It is characteristic that fashion later employed the corset in precisely
the =opposite= sense--namely, in order to make the breasts “stand out
more prominently above the upper margin of the corset, which continually
became shorter.” Thus there arose a conflict between medieval fashion
and the ascetic tendencies of the times. Fashion was victorious along
the whole line, as we can learn in detail in Ritter’s interesting essay
regarding the nudities of the middle ages.[108]
Since the middle ages, two portions of the body have in the female sex
been especially accentuated by clothing--the breasts, and the region of
the hips and the buttocks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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