The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy CruisePaine, Albert Bigelow
General
The Ship-Dwellers: A Story of a Happy Cruise
Paine, Albert Bigelow
Middle East -- Description and travel
The guide-book says that the arrival at Alexandria is not very
impressive. I suppose a good deal depends on the day and the time of day
and one's mental attitude. As usual with our arrivals, it was early
morning, and everything was hazy and yellow-misty with sunrise. We were
moving slowly, and the water was glassy still. Here and there across the
yellow haze drifted a barge-like craft with a lateen-sail, or a slow
moving boat, pulled by men in native dress. Then out of the mist across
the port bow came the outline of a low-lying shore, and a shaft that
rose, a vague pencil against the morning glow. The Diplomat was leaning
on the rail at my side.
"Egypt," he said, quietly. "That is a lighthouse--they call it a pharos,
after the one that Ptolemy built; it must have stood about in the same
direction."
Certainly that was not very dramatic, not actively so at least, but to
me it was impressive; and stealing into that dream-like harbor, through
the mellow quiet of the morning, I had the feeling that we were creeping
up on the past--catching it asleep, as it were; that this was indeed the
pharos of the Ptolemies--the harbor they had known.
I shall always remember Alexandria, Egypt. I shall always remember the
railway station with its wild hallabaloo of Arab porters, who grab one's
hand-baggage, make off with it, and sit on it in a secluded place until
you race around and hunt it up and produce baksheesh for its return. You
do not check baggage in Egypt, by the way; you register it, which means
that you tell somebody about it, then try to convince yourself that it
is all right and that some day you will see it again.
But I shall remember that station for another reason. When we had
finally fought our way through to the train, and Laura and I had placed
our things here and there in our compartment--in the racks and about--we
realized that we were hot and thirsty, and I said I would slip back and
get some oranges, seeing we had plenty of time.
It was easy to do that--easy enough, I mean, for I no longer had
anything for the Bedouins to grab. I got the oranges and paid a piastre
apiece for them--about ten times what they were worth in Jaffa, and I
had the usual difficulty making change--a detachment of interested Arabs
looking on meanwhile. Then I started back, and was stopped by a guard
who wanted to see my ticket. I felt for the flat leather case which I
generally carry in my hip-pocket. It was gone!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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