The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
Two stages from the Ob we reached the town of Kolivan, which is
perhaps the most dreary, cold-looking town in Siberia, situated in
a perfectly bare country, and exposed to every wind that blows. It
possessed a peculiar interest for us, however, as being the then
most easterly telegraph station in Siberia. The Tomsk station had
been completed, but the manager had not arrived to inaugurate the
opening when we left. Kolivan, being a second-rate station, only
Russian messages could be sent; but having got a gentleman in Tomsk
to write one out in that language, I was enabled to send a telegram
from Kolivan to St. Petersburg, a distance of 2700 miles. Many
repetitions were necessary in the transmission of this message, but
it was delivered with perfect accuracy in thirty-six hours.
The Siberian telegraph, being now completed as far as Irkutsk,
will no doubt be extended in time to the Amoor country. It is also
probable that a branch will be formed from Irkutsk to Kiachta, and
the Russians in Siberia confidently believe that their government
will establish a line across Mongolia to Peking.
The Baraba steppe is, for the most part, one vast marsh, extending
from the left bank of the river Ob westward to Tumen. It borders on
the Kirghis steppe on the south, and is apparently a continuation of
it. Its natural features are barren, being at the best a succession
of wild prairies. The grass is long and coarse, but there is so
much water on the ground that, in the summer season, the grass can
hardly be available for pasture. The steppe is bare of wood, with
the exception of strips here and there of dwarf birch-trees, which
struggle for existence. In some of its more elevated parts, trees
grow to a good size, but these spots are like oases in the desert.
The inhabitants of the steppe are few, and lack the comforts enjoyed
by the natives of other parts of Siberia. Villages are thinly
scattered, and poor and mean-looking. The principal subsistence of
the people consists in their cattle, and at every village a large
tract of common land is fenced in for pasture.
At the stations in Baraba the post-master is seldom found at home,
the domestic part of the establishment being generally left in
charge of women, and the posting-department in that of the senior
yemschik. The women in the steppe, we were informed, are mostly
Kirghis, called by the Russians by the generic name of Tartars. The
Kirghis women are physically superior to Russian women of the same
class,--cleaner, better dressed, and handsomer. They have, in many
instances, blue eyes and fair complexions, in marked contrast to
the Kalmuks and Mongols. In manners they are more cheerful than the
Russians.
Game abounds in the steppe. Blackcock were in some parts met with in
great numbers. Pure white pheasants and _ryabchik_ are plentiful,
and, I have been told, though I did not see any, that the ptarmigan
and capercailzie are also to be found.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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