The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
From Moscow to Petersburg by railway is a monotonous and
uninteresting journey, especially in winter. The country is flat
and bare; here and there a patch of winter wheat struggled through
the thin covering of snow, but the general aspect in the month of
December was that of a desert. The only town of note on the line is
Tver, on the Volga, where the railway crosses that river. In the
construction of the line, the convenience of the various small towns
has not been consulted. It was a purely imperial project to connect
Moscow with Petersburg. It is said that when the engineers, who were
engaged in the construction of the line, applied to the Emperor to
know what curves they should make so as to pass through the most
populous towns, he laid a ruler on the map, drew a straight line
from Petersburg to Moscow, and bade them follow it.
Railways, like all other public works in Russia, have been
constructed at enormous expense, from the peculations of the
officials who had to do with them. It is related of the Emperor
Nicholas, that when he had failed to impress certain Persian
ambassadors with the magnificence of his capital, he turned in
despair to Prince Menschikoff, and asked him whether there was
nothing that would astonish them. The prince suggested that they
might be shown the accounts of the Moscow railway.
We were not so favourably impressed with Petersburg, as a place of
residence, as we had been with Moscow. It is a magnificent city,
no doubt; its quays, bridges, "perspectives," palaces, and squares
present a faultless exterior, and leave an impression of grandeur
on the memory that makes other things small by comparison. But
the chill of officialism rests on the place; it was created out
of a swamp by the fiat of an emperor, and the imperial will is
all-pervading still; you cannot shake off the idea. Looking down
the "Nevsky," you take in at a glance miles of street laid out with
mathematical accuracy, and the effect is very striking; you admire
the magnificent Nicholas bridge that spans the Neva, a work that
made the fortune of others besides the architect; in short, you
admire everything separately and collectively about the capital, but
the reflection always crops up that this fine city and the glory
of it exists by the will of the emperor. Moscow is antiquated;
its streets are not so straight, nor so wide, nor so regular; its
buildings are not so imposing; but it is a natural and spontaneous
growth; there is a more homely and comfortable air about it than
Petersburg; and it was not built for the admiration of the world,
but because people wanted houses to live in. Petersburg lacks the
historical interest that invests the old capital, and it will be
long before it displaces the holy city in the affections of the
Russians, who one and all have a kind of superstitious reverence for
Moscow. The Czars also hold the old city in high esteem, and are
said to regard the Kremlin as the focus and ultimate asylum of their
power.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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