The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
My opportunities did not allow of my seeing more of the great sights
of Peking, but we have not yet done the theatres. It was, of course,
necessary to patronise some of these establishments, and they afford
great facilities for admitting people whose time is not all their
own. Ours certainly was our own, but we had let it out for other
purposes, and could only steal an hour now and then to give up to
this enjoyment. The theatres are open all day long, and all night,
too, for anything I know. The acting goes on incessantly--one piece
following another without interruption. The favourite pieces with
the actors, and by a natural inference with the audience, are old
historical heroic pieces, which are performed in a wretched falsetto
sing-song voice, and accompanied by the most die-away pantomimic
gestures, even in the chief male characters, painfully monotonous to
European ears and eyes. They are heavy and slow, but afford great
scope for the display of _outré_ costumes, overlaid with fiery
dragons and hideous forms, which delight the eye of the Chinese.
The theatres at Peking are certainly superior, both in the get-up
and acting, to anything else of the kind I have seen in China, and
some comic pieces we saw were so admirably acted that we, knowing
scarcely a word, could follow the story throughout. The houses
were always crowded, and the audience seemed to take more interest
in the performance than is usual in the south of China, no doubt
owing to the language used being the Peking dialect, which is but
indifferently understood by provincial audiences. On our entrance
to a theatre we were always civilly greeted by the officers, and
shown up to the most eligible places in the galleries, where we met
people from all parts of the country, not excepting swell Cantonese,
all dressed in spotless white muslin, as light and airy as if
made from the gossamer's web. We were at once beset by half-naked
peripatetic vendors of fruits, cakes, and comfits, and even cups
of hot tea. The tea was very refreshing in such a hot place, but
our neighbours insisted on giving us little dumplings and other
Chinese delicacies, whose component parts we could not even guess.
It was useless refusing--that was regarded as mock-modesty. We could
only take a quiet opportunity of depositing the suspicious viands
in our pockets, and give them to the first dirty urchin we met in
the street. The Chinese themselves go on crunching ground nuts,
melon-seeds, and rubbish of that sort, the whole time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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