The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
The order of our march was this. One of the Mongols on a camel
rode ahead, leading the next camel by a string from his nose. Half
the caravan followed him in single file, each camel being slightly
attached to the preceding by his nose-string. The other driver, also
on a camel, brought up the rear-guard in the same way. The Lama
was more privileged, for he never took any active part in leading
the caravan, but rode about on a pony, talking now to Tellig, now
to the Kitat, and now to us, then suddenly breaking out into some
of his wild native chants. He had a fine sonorous voice, and his
singing was a pleasant relief from the monotony of the way, and when
Tellig joined in chorus they made the welkin ring. The Mongols sing
with their natural voice, and have far more music in their souls
than the squeaking Chinese. The Lama indulged himself in a gossip
with every traveller he met, and would often be left out of sight,
but with his active pony he could easily overtake the slow-moving
camels. When he descried a Mongol yourt in the distance he seldom
missed a chance of riding up to it, to bestow his benediction on the
inmates, and drink tea with them. Nor was the Lama entirely useless
on the march, for the rearward camels were frequently getting loose,
and dropping into the rear, as Tellig and the Kitat seldom thought
of looking behind them. The moment a camel feels himself at liberty
he stops to graze. I have never seen one voluntarily follow his
leader. Great delay occurred sometimes from this cause, and the
Lama saved us much time by riding after a stray camel, dexterously
catching up the nose-string with his whip-handle, and leading the
straggler up to the caravan. The leading-string of the camel is
fastened to the gear of his leader in such a loose manner that a
very slight resistance is enough to undo it. The reason for this is
that if the string were secured firmly, any check in the rear camel,
or the leading one advancing from a halt before the rear one was
ready, would tear the camel's nose. A nose once broken in this way,
it is difficult to find good holding ground for the tweak, and the
Mongols are therefore very economical of camels' noses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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