The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
We had a long halt to-day, partly in consequence of a crack being
discovered in one of the camels' feet. This is an infirmity they are
subject to, and if sand and grit were allowed to get in, the animal
would become lame and useless. The remedy, which is always at hand,
is to sew a square patch of stout leather over the part affected,
which they do in the roughest cobbler fashion. With a flat needle
slightly curved they pierce the horny part of the sole, and fasten
the patch by means of leather thongs at each corner. This is only a
temporary measure, and when a camel is taken that way, he must soon
be turned out to grass. The Mongols have no trouble in getting at a
camel's feet. They first make him squat down, and then two of them
go at him with a sudden push and roll him over on his broadside, one
of them keeping his head down while the other operates on the foot.
The animal screams a good deal while he is being turned over, but
once down he resigns himself helplessly to his fate.
We did not get off till five o'clock in the afternoon. The night was
cloudy and no dew fell, and consequently it was not nearly so cold
as the night before. The difference in temperature between a cloudy
and a clear night is very marked in Mongolia.
We were now leaving the good pastures and the numerous herds of
cattle behind, and on the morning of the 29th August we found
ourselves getting into a very desert country with only a little
scrub grass, of which our poor ponies found it hard work to make a
meal. No horses or cattle were seen in this part, and the country
seemed only capable of supporting sheep and camels. About eleven
o'clock we halted, and encamped on almost bare sand. Not a single
"yourt" was in sight, and, for the first time, we had no visitors.
This must have been a relief to our Mongols, for they were compelled
by custom and their natural hospitality to receive and be civil to
all comers, and it was not easy for them to snatch even an hour's
sleep. This must have been a great privation, for their mode of
travelling all night precluded their getting any sleep at all,
except on the backs of their camels while on the march, and in their
tent during the six hours' halt in the day; and as that was broken
up by cooking and eating, pitching and striking tents, loading and
unloading camels, and other necessary matters, and the frequent and
protracted visits from neighbouring yourts, or travellers on the
road, our poor Tartars had often to go for days together with hardly
any sleep at all. But they never complained, and certainly were
never betrayed into any rudeness to their inconsiderate countrymen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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