The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.Michie, Alexander
History
The Siberian Overland Route from Peking to Petersburg,: Through the Deserts and Steppes of Mongolia, Tartary, &c.
Michie, Alexander
China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
We started again at 4.30 in the afternoon, and continued through
gentle undulations, proceeding, as before, all through the night.
Before morning we passed some rocky places over low hills, which
sadly disturbed our sleep in the carts--in fact, our usual night's
rest, while on the move, was far from being uninterrupted or
comfortable, and it was only our fatigue and exposure to the air all
day that enabled us to sleep at all under such circumstances. The
rough hilly part was again succeeded by low undulations continually
unfolding before us, and which became painfully monotonous to the
eye. Distances are altogether deceptive, partly owing to the smooth,
unbroken surface of the country, and partly to the mirage which is
always dancing on the horizon, making small objects look large, and
sometimes lifting them up into the air and giving them a variety of
fantastic shapes.
About 11 o'clock on the 30th of August we halted, and went through
our usual process of cooking and eating. We began to find that one
meal a day did not suit our habits, and we soon learned to keep
out a certain quantity of biscuit and cold meat when we had it,
so that we could make a breakfast or a supper without stopping to
unload the camels. To these materials we added a handful of tea or
some chocolate-paste, and in the morning rode up on our ponies to
any yourt we happened to see that was smoking, and there made our
breakfast. In the evening we often managed to do the same, but it
frequently happened that we had no opportunity of doing this.
But I have not explained what a "yourt" is. It is simply the
habitation of a Mongol family--a tent, but of a more permanent
construction than the ordinary travelling tent. It consists of a
frame of light trellis work covered with thick felt, is circular
in form, with a conical shaped roof, but nearly flat. A hole in
the apex of the roof lets out the smoke from the argol fire which
burns all day in the middle of the tent. At night, when the fire is
out, and before the inmates retire to rest, the hole in the roof
is covered up. I did not measure the upright part of the wall of
the tent, but it is under five feet, and you cannot enter without
stooping. The tent is about fifteen feet in diameter. A piece of
felt hanging from the top forms a door. The Mongols sleep on mats
laid on the ground, and pack very close. They have no bedding, but
sleep generally in their clothes, merely loosing their girdles. In
addition to the family, I have frequently observed a number of young
kids brought into the tent for shelter on cold nights. When the
owner decides on moving to better pastures, his yourt is packed up
in a few hours and laid on the back of a camel, or, failing that,
two oxen answer the purpose. Although yourt is the name always
used by foreigners, I never heard it from a Mongol. They call it
"gi-rai," as distinguished from a travelling tent, which they call
"mai-chung."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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