The Somerset CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Somerset Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Somerset (England) -- Description and travel
The ancient church of Minehead, the parish church of St. Michael, stands
as do most churches dedicated to that saint, on a hilly site. It is in
Upper Town, half way up North Hill, and quite remote, thanks be, from
the recent developments down below. Here the ancient white-faced
cottages remain, and the steep steps that form the road, and here you
feel that you are come again into the Somerset of pre-railway times. The
church is chiefly of the Perpendicular period. On the tower, rather too
high for their details to be easily made out without the aid of glasses,
are sculptured panels representing St. Michael weighing souls, with the
Virgin Mary on one side and the Devil on the other contending for
possession, by pressing down the beam of the scales; and a group of God
the Father, holding a crucified Christ. A rich projecting bay filled
with windows forms an unusual feature of the south side of the church.
It is the staircase turret of the rood screen, and was designed in this
fashion and filled with windows, it is said, for the purpose of showing
a light at night-time for fishermen making the harbour. No beacon is
shown now, but it is stated that fishermen still speak of “picking up
the church lights” as they make their way home. At the same time, it is
only right to say that, from personal observation, it seems impossible
that the windows or the turret could ever have been visible from the
sea. They look out rather in a landward direction, if anything, towards
Dunster. But on the opposite side of the church there remains an
inscription in Old English characters, somewhat decayed, by which it is
evident that the well-being of the neighbourhood was near the hearts of
these church folk:
We . prey . to . John . and M(ary)
send . our . neyburs . safte.
[Illustration: THE CLOCK JACK, MINEHEAD CHURCH.]
The interior of the church is very fine, with the usual rich rood-screen
we come to expect in these parts. It is possible to ascend the
staircase-turret and walk along the site of the rood-loft, which was
indeed until 1886, when the church was restored, occupied during service
by school-children. Here is preserved a queer little clock-jack figure,
removed from the tower. The entrance to the chapel of St. Lawrence from
the chancel is by an archway curiously framed in wood, instead of stone.
Various relics, in the shape of old books and Bibles, a carved-oak late
fifteenth-century chest, and some brasses of the Quirke family (among
whom one notices the oddly named “Izott,” wife of John Quirke, mariner,
1724) reward the visitor.
This way, uphill, past the old church, is the pleasantest exit from
Minehead, on the way to Porlock, but it is by no means the usual or the
easiest one, as the stranger will perceive when he is reduced to
enquiring the proper choice among several roads that presently confront
him.
[Illustration: LYNCH CHAPEL.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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