The Somerset CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Somerset Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Somerset (England) -- Description and travel
A SUDDEN drop into the vale of Porlock tilts the traveller neck and crop
into the village street. You realise, when come to the village, that it
stands in a flat, low-lying space giving upon a distant bay; a bay
distant just upon one mile. Once upon a time—a time so distant that
history places no certain date against it—the village immediately faced
the sea, and indeed took its name, which means “the enclosed port,” from
the fact of the harbour running up to this point, deeply embayed between
the enfolding hills. Rich meadows now spread out where the sea once
rolled; but the waves might surge there even now were it not for the
continued existence of that great rampart of stones flung up in the long
ago by the sea, which thus by its own action shut itself out from its
ancient realm.
Porlock has for “ever so long” been a show place, and, like any other
originally modest beauty, has at last become a little spoiled by praise,
and more than a little sophisticated. We do not greatly esteem the
self-conscious beauty, especially when she paints.
The charm of Porlock has been, and is being, still more sadly smirched
by expansion and by that increasing intercourse with the world which has
taken the accent off the tongues of the villagers, replaced the weirdly
cut provincial clothes of an earlier era with garments of a more modish
style, and brought buildings of a distinctly suburban type into the once
purely rustic street. But these newer buildings, although sufficiently
odious, do not by any means touch the depths of abomination plumbed by
the local Wesleyan Methodist Chapel, built in the ’30’s, and fully as
bad, in its grey stuccoed, would-be classicism, as that date would
imply.
The coming of the motor-car has been nothing less than a disaster to
Porlock. Not only private cars, growing ever larger and more productive
of dust, noise, and stink, rush through the once sweet-scented street,
regardless of the comfort and convenience of villagers or visitors, but
“public service” vehicles and chars-à-bancs as big as houses slam
through the place, raising a stifling dust that penetrates everywhere.
Few sights are more distressing, to those who knew Porlock as it was,
than that of the clustered roses and jessamines that mantle so many of
the houses, thickly covered with dust. It is a standing wonder that the
inhabitants of pretty villages plagued almost beyond endurance by
motorists do not arise and compel County Councils and other authorities
to take action. Possibly they know only too well that the majority of
members of those Councils is formed by owners of cars, who are
themselves among the worst offenders.
But, in any case, the simple old days of Porlock are done. To have seen
Porlock with Southey, how great that privilege! Great, not only in the
literary way, but in a glimpse of it in its unspoiled, unconscious
beauty, before ever it had become notable as a show-place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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