Buddhism -- Burma; Burma -- Religion; Burma -- Social life and customs
If you see a grove of trees before you on your ride, mangoes and
tamarinds in clusters, with palms nodding overhead, and great
broad-leaved plantains and flowering shrubs below, you may be sure that
there is a monastery, for it is one of the commands to the monks of the
Buddha to live under the shade of lofty trees, and this command they
always keep. They are most beautiful, many of these monasteries--great
buildings of dark-brown teak, weather-stained, with two or three roofs
one above the other, and at one end a spire tapering up until it ends in
a gilded 'tee.' Many of the monasteries are covered with carving along
the facades and up the spires, scroll upon scroll of daintiest design,
quaint groups of figures here and there, and on the gateways moulded
dragons. All the carvings tell a story taken from the treasure-house of
the nation's infancy, quaint tales of genii and fairy and wonderful
adventure. Never, I think, do the carvings tell anything of the sacred
life or teaching. The Burmese are not fond, as we are, of carving and
painting scenes from sacred books. Perhaps they think the subject too
holy for the hand of the craftsman, and so, with, as far as I know, but
one exception in all Burma--a pagoda built by Indian architects long
ago--you will look in vain for any sacred teaching in the carvings. But
they are very beautiful, and their colour is so good, the deep rich
brown of teak against the light green of the tamarinds, and the great
leaves of the plantains all about. Within the monastery it will be all
bare. However beautiful the building is without, no relaxation of his
rules is allowed to the monk within. All is bare: only a few mats,
perhaps, here and there on the plank floor, a hard wooden bed, a box or
two of books.
At one end there will be sure to be the image of the teacher, wrought
in alabaster. These are always one of three stereotyped designs; they
are not works of art at all. The wealth of imagination and desire of
beauty that finds its expression in the carved stories in the facades
has no place here at all. It would be thought a sacrilege to attempt in
any way to alter the time-honoured figures that have come down to us
from long ago.
Over the head of the image there will be a white or golden umbrella,
whence we have derived our haloes, and perhaps a lotus-blossom in an
earthen pot in front. That will be all. There is this very remarkable
fact: of all the great names associated with the life of the Buddha, you
never see any presentment at all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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